cam chain tensioner

clymer manual kinda breezes over this to say the least. I know it's not overly complex, but I don't want to damage anything. I've just gotten the head back on my 1977 1000 ltd, am ready to install the cam shafts and do timing.

While breaking my bike down to replace the head gaskets/o-ring I read nothing about needing to take off my cam chain tensioner. So it is still in original position from before taking my top end off.


I have what looks to be the stock tensioner, which means it's auto. Do I need to take the tensioner unit off? Or can I just loosen the bolt and release tension?

I guess this is the part that is a little foggy to me... so any help in these steps would be greatly appreciated

remove the tensioner. if u undo the bolt on the side(#23), the tensioners internal post(#15) will be bushed out by a spring to its max length. push it in all the way, then retighten the bolt. then replace the tensioner with a new gasket. it is now fully retracted. this will just give u more slack in the chain , easier to work with. after u get the cams back in u can release it, and adjust it as per shop manual. it is not fully automatic.
when u loosen the bolt the spring will push the internal tensioner rod into the cam chain roller, then retighten the bolt. the spring is what determines how much pressure is applied, but u still need to go through this procedure periodically.(loosen then tighten the side bolt to alow it to self adjust.).
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· www.powersportsplus.com/parts/search/Kaw...A3A-A4%29/parts.html

Some riders are using the manual tensioners:

Cam Chain Tensioners
kzzone.com/tensioners.html
www.kriegercamchaintensioners.com/

You really need to check the manual on this. Your tensioner looks exactly like the on one my 1977 KZ650-C1 and Kawasaki.com diagrams show the 1977 KZ1000 used the same one as the 1977 KZ650-C1. The tensioner is the manual type (that's a good thing), but you must turn the crank to a specific position so the cams are in a certain orientation when you loosen and tighten the tensioner bolt. On mine the timing advancer needs to have the "T" mark aligned with the pointer on the engine when adjusting the tensioner. I strongly suggest you check in a Kawasaki service or owners manual before adjusting it or starting the the engine to make sure it's done correctly. Ed

That's the manual tensioner. You don't need to touch it, just put the cams in, timed correctly and you're done.

Well I wasn't able to get the camshafts back into place, there wasn't enough slack in the chain to allow them to seat correctly. The manual says there will be 'considerable slack between the cams'... The chain was very tight, no way to get the chain on both shafts and have them seated, let alone count the 28 chain pins for timing.

So I removed the chain tensioner, have turned the outer 17mm bolt over several times while holding some chain tension to try to get a little slack into the chain. I still am having troubles finding any slack in the cam chain even with the tensioner unit removed.

Well got the cams back on finally! Had to wrestle the chain around to pull up slack. Also did a few revolutions around the timing bolt cycle while wrestling. Seems to be lined up nice and purdy now.