Clutch recomendation for a kz1000

i find the ape roller push plate to be helpfull.
And Dont forget the other end. clean and lube the worm gear on the clutch activator. it works wonders.

Thanks DoubleDub,
that was interesting ,I still think I will still go with stock plates but I plan on cleaning up the Barnetts and keeping them on hand.

Now I'm worried about the valve springs :S

Can you feel a difference with the APE roller push plate or is it a safety thing for missed shifts?
I don't think that I will be racing or power shifting the bike like in the past.
I'm planning on finding some good touring tires and possibly shocks and riding around like an old man for the most part

This year is all about putting on some miles and figuring out what I have to do next winter.

I have a 77 engine with about 12,000 miles on it that I would like to start working on.
A dream would be to have Larry go over the head and to bore out my extra set of 26 carbs to 28's

We'll see :dry:

bluej58 wrote: Thanks DoubleDub,
that was interesting ,I still think I will still go with stock plates but I plan on cleaning up the Barnetts and keeping them on hand.

Now I'm worried about the valve springs :S

Can you feel a difference with the APE roller push plate or is it a safety thing for missed shifts?
I don't think that I will be racing or power shifting the bike like in the past.
I'm planning on finding some good touring tires and possibly shocks and riding around like an old man for the most part

This year is all about putting on some miles and figuring out what I have to do next winter.

I have a 77 engine with about 12,000 miles on it that I would like to start working on.
A dream would be to have Larry go over the head and to bore out my extra set of 26 carbs to 28's

We'll see :dry:

your valve springs should not be a problem , unless u try to visit the red line. if u cruise it will be fine. as the springs get tired, they will lack the ability to keep the cam lobes in contact with the valve shims at high rpms. this is called valve float. if the rpms are very hi the valve can travel too far down and contact the piston. this is more common with high lift cams, high compression pistons, hi rpms, worn springs.

i think i Can you feel a difference with the APE roller push plate, but it is not dramatic, very slight if anything. i dont feel it is a racer thing, just an improvement over stock. there is a ball bearing inside the clutch. this bearing provides less friction, so the rod does not fuse (weld to the clutch). but this still happens sometimes. so the APE roller push plate prevents this. they are only about $30 or $40.

I would at least hold onto the old plates. Give them a quick measure...you'll be surprised. Especially with only 12k...

DoubleDub wrote: I would at least hold onto the old plates. Give them a quick measure...you'll be surprised. Especially with only 12k...

Oh yeah,I hate to throw away anything and I'm sure the second motor has a Barnett in it too,
with probably only half those miles on it.

I bought the bike from my buddy after he was rear ended by a cage about a year after I picked up my A2A.
His was one of the first built and mine was one of the last.

I just don't like to have to bust the clutch loose first thing so stock clutch and springs sound pretty good to me .

If I feel I want heavier springs down the road no big deal.

JD