Clutch recomendation for a kz1000

I have always went with Barnetts but hated having to break them loose every day :pinch:
Are the Apes the same way ?
I already have heavy duty springs.

Red Line talks about mixing stock and barnett plates 50- 50

They also have a tip ( quote from Red Lines catalog )

The Barnett clutch plates are an excellent item that solves a number of issues with the Kaw 900/1000 clutch....
One easy, 10 minute modification can make them even better......

Take each plate, and with a few strokes of a file bevel the sharp edge of both sides of each location tab.....just enough to take the sharp corner off.....

This will retain the extra strength of these plates, and make them engage and disengage as smooth as stock plates....

Has any of you guys tried any thing like this , did it work ?

How about sand blasting the plates ?

All the stuff out there the last 35 yrs, stock Kawasaki plates and springs are still best if you can still get them. If not, good luck with any of them other clutch parts.

My brother runs reclines 50-50 clutch and loves it. I have ridden it and think the clutch is smoother than my stock one and it doesn't slip even when you pour the coals to that big 1230.

bluej58 wrote: I have always went with Barnetts but hated having to break them loose every day :pinch:
quote]

what do u mean by , break them loose??

i have run the plates from ape. they are thinner plates , this allows for 1 extra plate to be installed.
i found that the thinner metal tabs would ware on the mating surface of the basket. this caused the plates to grab and then disengage abruptly.
i had too dress the basket surface with a file to smooth out the gouges.
i have since used the stock plates with ape springs,no problems.
i have a 1200cc motor, but I do not drag race.
i think the ape plates are better suited for drag racing, where u may need more clutch grab, and understand that there is going to be additional wear and maintenance involved, do to the strain of the sport.

My bud has the Barnett setup and yes been around for ever and do work well but.... even with strong hands them are sonsabitches and on a ride where regular shifting would be required, naw go with OEM...

Unless your really racing your ride, running some serious BHP/torque, older like most of us :pinch: :whistle: :laugh: , naaaaaaaaaaawwwww...

I got all my clutch components from where else Z1 ~ $120...





In case you need....

I don't know if your engine has been heavily modified, but if it is stock or near stock I would recommend the stock plates and springs. They work well; don't slip when properly adjusted, don't stick after sitting overnight like true racing clutches, and don't require a King Kong grip to shift. The fact that lots of folks have good luck with a 50/50 mix of clutch plates demonstrates that the stock plates don't slip. If they did, the clutch would slip because the stock plates would slip even if the Barnett's did not. Ed

Heavily modified or not stock OEM clutch plates are what you want now you may want a 20% heavier spring but NOT the RED ones that are offered I used STOCK CLUTCH PLATES in my old car tire kaw dragbike running mid 8 sec passes with out issue.

I have seen the same stated by a certain member who races an alcohol injected Kz650. I would stick with stock plates. Otakar said one of the spring sets from Z1E was slightly stronger, but you can always shim the springs (preload them) like OMR has in his photo collage above, too.

Thank you everyone,

I guess that settles that , stock clutch and springs.
OMR , thanks for the pics. I forgot about soaking the plates .

What kind of prep is good for the steel plates ?

Mark, when I would start the bike first time for the day the plates would be glued together,
I had to hold the front brake give her some throttle and bang it in gear.
We all did.

That was then and now I feel like my racing days are long over, although I'm looking forward to pulling that front end off the ground at least once or twice to test out the new seals

After 35 years of being a carpenter my left hand will be happier with a easy pull.

JD

JD:

I would review the following: kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/367700-refurbishing-your-clutch

I used this method and only had to replace the springs on my 27k+ motor.

These were the springs mentioned that are supposed to be 15%~ish stronger than stock. I used them (with shims, but I don't think that was necessary) and don't really notice a difference on the left hand.

Whoops - forgot link: www.z1enterprises.com/Clutch-Springs-5-K...90010001100-319.aspx

A old trick would be to use the small spring from your valve springs.