Broken Cam Bolt

I was re-adjusting some of my valve clearances, and I ended up breaking one of the cam bolts off into the block. I was using the right tork according to specs, but I guess it was just weak. I was wondering if there was some good advice on how to get it out, ie products I could use or something I could do. I am also curious on what the torque is on your cam covers for an 81 750. I know the wrench is good, so I think the bolt was just weak. On another side, does anyone know where I can get or trade in shims for my valves? I haven't quite solved the original problem with my bike, but I wanted to fix the clearance on my valves. I put some new springs in, and it seems to have messed with the clearance. I would be happy to trade shims with someone if they have any extra.

I think you mean the cam-cap bolts, the ones that hold the cam-cap/cam down to the head ?
These bolts are steel and your head is alum. I would have thought that the bolt would strip out the hole/port before it would break off but if thats the case ?
Can you get at the bolt at all ? or, is it flush with the broken bolt top surface? can you get a drill on it? If you can't you will probably have to pull the head. If you can go and buy an "EZ-OUT" (try NAPA)..take a good bolt in with you and show em what you have, than get a drill bit for your e-z out,they may have the proper one. The instructions that come with the Ez-out will tell you what size. Carefully drill (pre-punch) the broken bolt deep enough that the ez-out will "bite in"..take your time and you will get it. probably have to re-thread the port after your done.
Good Luck &
Go slow.

if you are drilling out the bolt, which you'll probably have to do, keep a strong magent close to the bolt, while drilling. Kawasaki generally frowns upon metal shavings inside the engine.

If you have enough room to get a drill in there to drill a hole, you might just try a left hand drill bit. I may bite just enough to back the broken bolt out of the hole if not you can still use an ez-out on it. just my 2 cents.

I don't have manual here, but torque is somewhere around 8 ft/lbs if memory serves me. How in this world can a bolt break at 8 ft/lbs is beyond me. The good thing is the bolt is in a well oiled cylinder head and not seized in the head. It should thread right back out with even the slightest twist. Probably just get a sharp pick or something and try to work it out. Don't overtighten these caps. They'll strip the aluminum at 8 ft/lbs. I'd recommend more like 6 ft/lb.

Thanks for the advice so far. So far there is no way to get plyers or anything down to it. It looks like it broke pretty even with the hole. Any advice on the shims?

Once you know what size shim(s) you need check with a dealer. If they can't help then post here, someone may have what you need. I think Z1 Enterprises has shims, call them too.

I had the same experience, as have several others. I got it out with an easy out, basically a reverse threaded bit. Here's my post from then...
kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=21457

As for getting a new bolt...

Jeff Saunders graciously told me about fastenal.com when I asked him about replacing those bolts on my 750E1. I also broke one off but was able to get it out with an easy out. Fastenal had all 16 bolts for about a dime each.

Wondering if these bolts break (on removal) because red lock-tite was used ? For the next guys sake, don't use red lock-tight on em, blue is ok tho.

The posts in this thread will also help.

kzrider.com/component/option,com_joomlab...iew/id,2609/catid,2/

It's good to chase threads on ANY 'holes' to clear any remaining 'thread lock' before reinstalling bolts/studs/screws. First blow out with air, chase to a tad more depth than you'll need with a bottoming tap, blow out agsin. If you've not used a tap before, it's important to back it to clear chips any time it starts to bind and if it still binds, take it out and blow clear with air.

I recently had to reinstall my cam caps and did not use thread lock on them...how much should I worry about this?

I torqued the bolts down to whatever the book said, i think 10 ft/lbs.

They weren't loctighted by the factory. They don't ever come loose, no need for loctite in my opinion.
masospaghetti wrote:

I recently had to reinstall my cam caps and did not use thread lock on them...how much should I worry about this?

I torqued the bolts down to whatever the book said, i think 10 ft/lbs.