Loctite on case bolts??? Or antiseize?

I guess the subject speaks for itself--seems like a low strength would be a good idea--Blue 242 or 243.

no need for thread locking in case bolts, you are worrrying for nothing...

if anything, make sure you dont overtorque and strip threads

Yeah, just jam em in there. They most likely wont get stuck. Mine weren't stuck after 32 years.

Definitely not loctite.

I've been using antiseize for years on case bolts. It helps in these rainy climates. The steel bolts, after their plating gets scratched from a few removals, will cement together with the aluminum case threads with just a little bit of water.

never had problems in 30 uears and around here they do use anticing salt on the roads and i do ride in freezing weather.

if you do go for antiseize (no manual will tell you to do so) be REALLY careful with torque as it is essentially also a lubricantand and the handbook dry torque values will be too high.

unless you live AND ride in freezing weather, no need, IMHO of course.

Look in the torque table in your Kawasaki service manual. It is very specific as to which bolts require non-permanent locking agent. Don't bother using it on the others as you will only be inviting trouble. Ed

loudhvx wrote: Definitely not loctite.

I've been using antiseize for years on case bolts. It helps in these rainy climates. The steel bolts, after their plating gets scratched from a few removals, will cement together with the aluminum case threads with just a little bit of water.

What torque values do you use? I have one case already with several broken bolts in it, Im going to use anti-seize this time.

www.arp-bolts.com/pages/arpultratorque.shtml

Use the torque values specified in the Kawasaki Service Manual. The only exception I am aware of is the cam caps. For those, ask for the correct value on this site prior to torquing because depending on which bike/model/manual you have manual may have too high a value. This has led to some stripped bolt holes in the cylinder head. I have always torqued bolts near the low end of the torque range and have not yet experienced any stripped threads. Using anti-seize is not an absolute necessity, but it is not a bad idea where bolts are going into the aluminum engine. On a related not; the cross head screws that look like Phillips and NOT Phillips. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) and using Phillips screwdriver tips on them will quickly ruin them. See:

kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/519588-tips#519601

and
kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/452802-loud-c...hile-cranking#452872

Ed

kmberjo wrote: I guess the subject speaks for itself--seems like a low strength would be a good idea--Blue 242 or 243.

I would use the green, wicking stuff so that you're sure it gets all the way in there. Wouldn't want the motor to fall apart while riding now would we. Don't worry about what the manual says pertaining to this as I'm pretty sure that the engineer that worked a 1000 hours deciding where to put fasteners and what to use for lubricant and torque had his head firmly up his ass.

andy9802gt wrote:

kmberjo wrote: I guess the subject speaks for itself--seems like a low strength would be a good idea--Blue 242 or 243.

I would use the green, wicking stuff so that you're sure it gets all the way in there. Wouldn't want the motor to fall apart while riding now would we. Don't worry about what the manual says pertaining to this as I'm pretty sure that the engineer that worked a 1000 hours deciding where to put fasteners and what to use for lubricant and torque had his head firmly up his ass.

Yipeee! more fun with goop! I'm off to the Home Depot for a selection of masons trowels to apply it. :woohoo:

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Nah, we don't need no stinkin' goop; heck, we don't even need bolts! Just weld everything together! That ought to hold 'er. :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: