chamfer tools

I have a 903 block bored out to 1015 and the sleeves have no chamfer at the bottom,what do you guys use to chamfer the bottom of the sleeves to help get the rings started into the block,like it is I am looking at 2 people with popcycle sticks working the rings around untill they go in the block (1&4 then 2&3)

We put them in when we bore the blocks. Not sure how to do it correctly without a boring bar.

Jay

Post edited by: APE Jay, at: 2006/05/14 01:03

do some searches; maybe some of the creative ideas that have come up in the past, like using zip-ties as ring compressors, will help you out.

popcycle, motorsickle...

Craig, I understand where you are at. I have been in the same boat and it is a pain to get those rings started on freshly bored cylinders with no chamfer. I personally just carefully pinch with my pinkies the same way as I normally would and never thought about re-chamfering the bottom end of the sleeve. I can't think of a reason not to hit that end with a die grinder carefully to give it some chamber. I can't think of a reason why it has to be scientific as the piston doesn't travel down that far. You could also take the block back to whoever bored it and ask them to put some chamfer on the end with a slightly larger bore? I have some Snap-On ring compressors and have found those and most other tricks I tried were pretty much a waste of time when installing. The old pinch and press works as well as any technique for those stubborn rings although too much press will crack them so take care.

most automotive machine shops have a cone shaped tool that has a coarse sandpaper insert on it, it takes just a sec. to put a chamfer on the cyl,
make a couple of phone calls, and I am sure you will find someone who can do it

I think the professional chamfer tool BSKZ650 mentioned makes some sense. Although I can't think of a good reason not to just hog the base of the liners out with a Dremmel tool it makes me nervous and I haven't tried it. I PERSONALLY would have bought a 1015cc block and had it honed to get the correct clearances rather than use a 903cc block and had to have it bored. Mucho cheaper!

I'd give the dremmel/die grinder a go first and, just as an aside, I always do 2&3 first then work "out" to 1&4.

IMHO, seems to me that if you do 1&4 first you leave yourself very limited space to work on 2&3.

Good luck with your project.

cmon guys its not that big a deal. Take a round file and go to town like i did. Ive had the cyl. off twice sincce and have no problems. Put them pop. sticks away. Find a cheep chinee oil filter wrench or a band of thin metal that is plyable that you can bend with your hand. It can be fed between the studs and bent back to a circle shape to compress the rings. Just straighten the thing to get it into the piston erea and it will bend back into a circle with no fuss. It works real well. I couldnt compress my rings by hand no way. Especially the oil rings. So i think u guys are doiing it the hard way. And must have lots of popsickles.

I am doing this work for someone else, or like George said I would have used a 1000 block ,I started the project just helping get the parts and the machine work done but now he wants me to put the top end on for him too.

I already had the kz1000 pistons from another block that was bored out to 1075 so all it cost was 35.00 per hole and I don't have to cut the cases any.

from the looks of the rollers from the head its going to be a terror,cam chain will prally bend like a rope and fall off the crank gear at the drop of a hat.

he's already a little over 300.00 (parts and machine work) into this build and I can see a lot more that needs doing but the call is going to be his. :blush: