kz550 pcv reed valves, 1983 ltd c4

how do you tell if the pcv reed valves are still good? i've been trying to figure out where an oil leak is coming from & though i might have actually stopped it i'm still not sure of the exact source. attached is a picture of my pcv reed valve (#1/#2). do these look "normal" for the age of the bike?

tapping on each one (also on the #3/#4) they all open & close so they appear to be in ok condition to me. i tried removing them (both sides) to take pictures of the other side but they're stuck in pretty good and i didn't want to pry them out w/a screw driver. i did try lifting them out with a pair of pliers (per a service manual) by pulling up on the vertical protrusion but all that accomplished was a chipping of the protrusion.

after replacing the covers, tightening down the bolts, disconnecting/reconnecting the air suction connections to the reed valves and the airbox, and then tightening every cylinder head bolt i could reach without having a longer socket extender my leak has at least temporarily stopped. so i'm not sure if just taking the reed valve covers off & tapping some stuck reed valves was the solution or just tightening everything i could reach was the solution. or if the leak will come back after i take the bike back on the highway.

general symptons of the leak have been the higher the rpm, the more oil leaks. not that i've had to add oil since april when i changed it, but at 70 mph in 6th gear @ 6500 rpm my boot, stator cover, and left half of cylinder smoke from the oil (and amount) on them heating up. riding around town at max 45 mph, 4th gear, 5500 rpm, i get about a quarter sized spot after i park the bike & it sits for about 2 hours or so.

just trying to eliminate easier things before tearing into the cyclinder/crankcase to replace gaskets as i haven't been able to pinpoint leak location yet (yes, i've tried the footpowder method too).

Those have nothing to do with PCV. The PCV system is the big round cover on the top of the transmission, below the carbs and airbox.

The reeds allow clean air to flow into the exhaust system in one direction, and there shouldn't be any oil in there. There is likely carbon build up from the exhaust. When the air suction system fails, the symptom is big backfires in the exhaust system whenever you close the throttle after a hard acceleration.

You can eliminate the air suction system with no affect on jeting or performance. Remove the contraption above the engine and plug all of the holes it was connected to. That is the two ports in the valve cover, the big port on the top of the airbox, and the two vacuum lines at the intake manifolds.

Check my signature for a manual explaining it.

This system was designed by Kawasaki to be a "Clean Air Suction System" to introduce filtered air into the exhaust through ports above the exhaust valves for better emissions.

It's not an EGR or rebreather like automobiles have for their smog reduction.

Most bike owners remove it, and use either home made block off plates or buy them from these websites:

Smog Block Off Plates(ask if they make a kit for your bike)
www.tpoparts.com
www.kzzone.com/billet.html

Those reed cages will snap if you try to pry them out too hard. Even if you block off the cages with new plates, you need the reed cages in there since they are the sealing surface for the covers. It's best to just let them sit in there forever.

You can just connect a hose from one side to the other, or you can buy new plates to cover them.
kzzone.com/billet.html

The oil leak can be coming from several places. You may need to clean the fron side of the motor with engine degreaser and then see wher it's leaking from.

Likely, there could be a leak at the base gasket, or head gasket, or valve cover, or even the tachometer port (but that's more on the right side).

If not already done, would assure the exhaust clamp nuts are snug.

If an aftermarket oil cooler is fitted, would also check its hose connections.

Good Fortune!

thanks for the suggestions. i've seen the different bypasses mentioned on other forum posts as well. anyone note if the reed valves look ok though? i've ridden twice since i took off the covers & tightened everything i could reach down & it hasn't leaked so my next test is taking it up to 6500 rpm & see what happens leakwise.

oddly enough i sent some pics of the valves & my leak locations (not an obvious source) to a mechanic & he suggested just making sure the pvc system (big round cover under airbox at the back & hoses up to the vacuum/reed valves) was all working properly as he has seen many misdiagnosed "head gasket leaks" that were in reality pcv related. his theory based on his experience is that the pcv helps relieve pressure that builds up in crankcase as well as being something for smog control - if the pcv system isn't working right pressure can build up in the crankcase and oil will leak wherever it can. so he recommended testing that first & make sure it was functioning properly prior to getting into head/base gaskets as the pcv "system" as whole could be responsible.

i actually disconnected all 4 of my exhaust connections at the engine & reconnected them - the spacers between the clamp & the engine weren't all installed right. managed to the #2 (over tightend) but bought a used one to replace it. the copper gaskets looked good so i didn't bother with those.

in short, hopefully the leak is gone but since i was doing multiple things at once i'm not sure which would be the actual source. since there isn't any oil leak around the exhaust connections (or tach) i'm hoping it was just tightening everything down.

anyway, thanks for the help.

Like I said, the reed valves have nothuing to do with the crankcase pressure. The air going through them never goes into the motor, it goes from airbox into the exhaust.

I can't tell if the reeds are good or not, but I've never seen them actually fail or go bad, and if they did, it wouldn't make any difference since you can totally disconnect them. As a matter of fact, Canadian models didn't even have them at all. It's just an emissions thing.

The PCV breather on the transmission is what matters. That thing needs to breathe into open air, or into the airbox.