Cam Chain Tool

Is anyone familer with the type of cam chain tool Jeff at Z1 sells. How does it work? I have seen cheaper versions do they all function the same. Does anyone want to rent me one? I hate to spend $80 on a one time tool. Is there any other way of peening over the link? Just looking for a little input.
Thanks

I'll give you the straight goods on my experience. I bought a cam chain and one of those tools etc. off Z1 a couple of winters ago. Theoreticly this tool could be used for the cam and drive chain. It worked great for the drive chain, but half assed for the cam. I broke (2) of the rods that came with the tool, which are used to flair end pins. In fairness, I had ZERO previous experience with the procedure or using the tool. My impression is that the tool that I used was semi-soft metal and not really hard tool steel. I also bought (2) soft links with the order and I'm glad that I did because I half assed buggered the first one. The tool is pretty basic to use actually, maybe I over did it with the tightening/pin flaring. I'll try to find a pic of this particular tool back in the archives. It may be a link below this, when I find it. I do remember feeling a little pissed off and unimpressed with the tool in general.

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=22432

Post edited by: gas, at: 2006/05/11 18:06

Thanks for the reply. Actually the tool I was talking about was the cheaper tool. The one on the web site that is purple colored. One side I can understand it is just a stud that pushes the pin out. The other side is a pin on a spring and a recessed stud that doesnt come out at all. Its this side I dont really understand. Gas how did you finally get it together?

Howard...just so You know,Bud...last year,Tony and I installed My new cam-chain,and We peened it together.I held a very dense,thick chunk of steel on the backside of the chain,while Tony peened the 2 pins.We rotated it over and over,and just to sayWe did...We tapped them again.
I haven't put a WHOLE lot of miles on the bike since,but I'd have to say that I've got a couple thousand,anyway...no problems at all.
Fact is...Tony did HIS chain the exact same way...weeks(maybe even months) BEFORE We did Mine,and He hasn't had any problems either.
Hope that helps You make up Your mind.

td1howard wrote:

Gas how did you finally get it together?

Well, I still don't have it together.:lol: Ok, I was half way through my cam chain installation when Tony explained to me how he and Sandy did theirs. I'll try to think back and follow what I did.... I reshimed the valves at the same time, so I took the cams out. If you have under bucket shims and are going to do a double header, measure all your tolerances first, yada, yada, anyway.... Wiredgeorge tole me that if I have a bicycle type cam chain that I can cut/break it, attach the new one, then feed it through the engine, around and back up to the top. I then removed the old cam chain and put in one of the two soft links that I ordered. I used the tool to push a pin out of one of the links in the old chain, then I just used plastic zip ties to connect the two chains so I could feed it down, under, and back up. I suppose you could use the tool to push a pin through attaching both chains, but I was lazy. After my good chain was linked together with a new soft link, (I don't know why they are called soft links as they are just a metal link with a loose pin also) I put the cams back in. There is a tooth count that you have to follow and on the 650 the arrows must be horizontal on the cams. If you look at the picture in the link that I put in my last post here, you can see an arrow pointing left on the left cam and an arrow pointing right on the right cam and a dot on the cam chain by these arrows. I used a paint marker like they use at salvage yards to mark parts, for visual reference and aid in counting. I suppose you can just leave the cams in if not shimming, link up the old/new chains, rotate the crank with a wrench, remove the old chain and install a soft link. Don't remove the cam chain tensioner when turning the engine with a wrench or the cam chain might bunch up and jump links. Damn, I'm tired and I hope I'm not screwing you up with this.... Don't push the soft link on too hard or your cam chain might bind. After the link is on, the pin pushed in, do what Sandy said. You have to flare the soft link pin so It won't back out/come apart. Look at how the pins in all your drive or cam chain links are, they have a slightly squashed shoulder so the pin won't come out. That's what you want. I'll try to find some archived stuff on this. Anyone willing to help with this information/procedure, please do. It was a few years ago and I'm tired.:blink:

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=25466

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=24015

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=22432

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=20997

Post edited by: gas, at: 2006/05/12 02:11

i have used the tool sold by mikesxs.com on my friends xs650
it was easy to use and IIRC cost about $35 roller chain looks th esame as on the gs1000 which is supposed to be the same as the kawasaki roller chains...
came with dies for the drive chain but IMO these are only good as patterns for making your own from better material. also sells the pins for the cam chains individually for a few bucks. we had spares but didn't need.

-Duck