Ok to use resistor spark plugs in a KZ?

Been all around town looking for replacement spark plugs. My manual says I should use NGK B6ES. I can't find a match at any store (or any brand) in town. The only thing I can get is the resistor version BR6ES.

I know I can get them online but I really don't want to wait for shipping. Will the resistor versions cause problems?

1979 KZ750

I've been using BR8EIX-BR9EIX (NGK Iridium thing, hard to foul) spark plug for a long time with my KZ750-R1 82...

No problem except if you have resistor in spark plug caps and you put spark plug with resistor ... spark will be weak!

Hope this help!

regards,
laurent

Resistance in the secondary loop helps reduce audio interference.

Resistance may be located in the plug wire or in the plug cap or in the plug itself.

The ignition will perform just fine without any resistance.
In which case there will be some audio interference.

I run Dyna solid core (non-resistant) plug wires that have pre-fitted non-resistant caps, and NGKB8ES non-resistant spark plugs. And would suffer audio noise if listening to a radio.

Where resistance in the secondary loop is desired, it should be placed in only one of the three possible locations: wire or cap or plug.
Otherwise there is too much resistance which results in a weaker spark.

Good Fortune!

Ok, thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I've got resistors in my caps. I guess I'll be ordering some plugs online.

Patton, I am amazed! I was sure you'd get it right, but you didn't

It's not audio interference, it's electromagnetic interference, and it blankets the RF spectrum.
It can mess up AM radio listening over a block away, and closer it can mess up fuel injection computers. In some manuals for fuel injected motorcycles there are warnings about having no resistance in the ignition secondary circuit.

The original Marconi radio was a spark gap transmitter, with no resistance in the circuit you have four of them.

Thanks for the explanation.

I went ahead and put the R series plugs in and I seem to be running OK. I pulled the plugs after a short ride and they're pretty carbony. Hopefully the proper plugs will fix that when they arrive.

Checked the input voltage to the ignition coils? It should be very close to battery voltage. if a lot lower,you're getting a weak spark. Try this:

Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website.

On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach.
Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start.

Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting).I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........




Why WD-40 Should Not Be Used On Motorcycle Electrical Items.

For many years, I was proponent of the use of WD-40 on fuse clips, fuses, switches and connectors. After hearing of other peoples experience with intermittent and sporadic activity, I shrugged it off as maybe they did something wrong in the application of the product.


It wasn’t until the time I rode my 1982 GPz1100 B2 model to downtown San Diego that I encountered the problems others had gone through.

After concluding my business downtown, I walked to where my bike was parked, turned the key to unlock the forks, and prepared to start the engine. The key was in the "On" position, yet I had no lights in the dash panel, the fuel pump was not running(I have FI), and the horn and tail light were not working.


Puzzled as to why nothing electrical was happening, I remember my earlier conversations about how WD-40 will over time become a non-conductor(more like an insulator). I had some pieces of 400 and 600 grit sandpaper in my tool kit and with them was able to scratch away the coating from the WD-40 on the fuses and clips.

After removing the insulating film, the bike started and ran like it should. Since that time, I’ve told people about the problem with WD-40. If you must use a contact cleaner, I recommend getting some "De-oxit" from Radio Shack Stores or any good electronic supply store.

Thanks MFolks. I've read that advice on other posts before. When you say "it should be very close to battery voltage", how close is close? If I'm getting 12v at the battery, what should I reasonably expect to get at the ignition coils?

I have heard a lot about interference from non-resistor systems yet I have NO resistors in my system at all and use a GPS and an on-board camera and have had no problems at all. I must just not turn on my AM radio I guess. My Marcony will have to stay off also i guess. I will have to resort to some other form of communication next time i Have to send an SOS to the AAA :laugh: :blush: :silly:. Honestly I have no resistor plugs, wires,or caps on my bike and have no problem. i also run a .060 gap on the plugs. NO PROBLEM

steell wrote: ...It's not audio interference, it's electromagnetic interference, and it blankets the RF spectrum.
It can mess up AM radio listening over a block away, and closer it can mess up fuel injection computers. In some manuals for fuel injected motorcycles there are warnings about having no resistance in the ignition secondary circuit.
The original Marconi radio was a spark gap transmitter, with no resistance in the circuit you have four of them.

Yessir, I could have worded it better by using more technical language, but whatever it's called, the meaning I intended to convey is the static or noise that significantly interferes with the "audio reception" (i.e., what my ears are hearing) and is directly related to engine rpm.

Besides AM radio frequencies, FM radio reception on or near my bike with engine running is also virtually unlistenable (absent resistance in the secondary loops).

The static or whine or interference or whatever it's more accurately called, overpowers the normal signal to the extent of rendering the reception of whatever is being broadcast by a radio station impossible to enjoy.

Here's one of a plethora of articles about this phenomenon.

How to Remove Car Radio Static
By Meg Jernigan, eHow Contributor

Automobile radios operate in a hostile electromagnetic environment. They're constantly bombarded by a multitude of magnetic pulses from the car's ignition and charging systems, accessory motors, relays and solenoids, and other electric components. AM signals are especially vulnerable to radio frequency interference (RFI) from ignition systems, because both operate within the same 0.5 million to 1.6 million hertz range. If whirring, humming or clicking noises interfere with your listening enjoyment, there are a few steps you can take to remove car radio static.
Resistor spark plug wires
Ground strap . . .
Inline noise filter

1 Eliminate most ignition noise by replacing your spark plug wires with resistor wires. These wires suppress RFI by conducting the high energy ignition pulses at a controlled resistance.

2 Ensure that the negative battery cable has good contact both on the battery terminal and the ground point on the chassis. A poor connection can cause the circuit to travel the wrong route and interfere with radio reception. Clean or replace corroded cables, and make sure both contacts are metal-to-metal.

3 Tinned Copper Braided Ground Strap
Make sure the vehicle's body and engine have a common ground by connecting a flexible braided copper strap between the hood and the firewall. Scrape the mounting surfaces to bare metal and use existing screws or bolts to secure the strap.

4 Remove the antenna mounting nut and confirm that there is good contact between the antenna and the vehicle's body. Check the antenna's connection to the antenna cable and make sure that it's tight and free of corrosion.

5 SoundGate Noise Filter
Eliminate alternator whine and spillover noise from other circuits by installing a noise filter in the radio's power cord. Clip the red power wire in the back of the radio and solder the filter inline. Ground the filter to a steel body component beneath the dash.

Read more: How to Remove Car Radio Static | eHow.com www.ehow.com/how_4897266_remove-car-radi...c.html#ixzz1SPif8F4y


Good Fortune!

Than I guess we'r OK than It seams to be the other guys problem. :blush:

otakar wrote: I have heard a lot about interference from non-resistor systems yet I have NO resistors in my system at all and use a GPS and an on-board camera and have had no problems at all. I must just not turn on my AM radio I guess. My Marcony will have to stay off also i guess. I will have to resort to some other form of communication next time i Have to send an SOS to the AAA :laugh: :blush: :silly:. Honestly I have no resistor plugs, wires,or caps on my bike and have no problem. i also run a .060 gap on the plugs. NO PROBLEM

Just wondering if the relatively large .060 plug gap might itself be contributing sufficient resistance in lieu of the other three sources (wires; caps; or "R" plugs)?

Info from Z1E listing:
Dynatek "Dyna" Wires are available with a solid copper core for use on older vehicles where electrical interference is not an issue. For use on new vehicles with electronic advance ignitions or other sensitive electronic equipment use DYNA suppression wires with a high grade graphite core for best performance and electrical noise suppression

Good Fortune!