Supertrapp header muffler

I've got this kinda unusual Supertrapp muffler on my MAC header. I got it new off ebay. As I recall it was "made" for a Honda V45.
It has the weird baffle plates on the outlet instead of a single "pipe" style outlet. I'm trying to get an idea on whether or not I need to alter the baffle setup.
It came with a total of 8 or 9 plates and I used them all. Since it is on a 1000J with UNI foam pods I figured it needed to flow more than the V45 which the instructions (now lost) said might use 5-6.
Any ideas on how to tune for max performance?
I have 127.5 mains, and #40 pilots in my CV BS34 carbs. (not yet sure if this is gonna work)

Very well explained and to the point ...call supertrapp and ask em...chances are you will get someone who will know a bit about that exact piece and have some info...they know their stuff...not the Kaw stuff so much but the cylinder count and cc's...send you a few plates too i bet if they have em...
they were great with me and will always get a look when i need something...

More plates = less backpressure and more sound. How's the decibel level with your current setup?

db level is pretty quiet. I'm not too concerned with that, just performance.
I obviously can't call Supertrapp today, but read on their forum that I might need as many as 12+ baffles @$22 a 6pk.
Since I think I still have a too rich condition after carb work I guess more baffles are in order.

See if the screws will come out easily. If they do, then just take off the baffles and plate. That will make it very similar to a Kerker muffler. Louder, yes, but it will be a straight-through muffler then, and will breathe a lot more (obviously). At idle, it won't be much louder. Overall, without the baffles or end cap, it's slightly louder than a Kerker K series canister, which is very quiet at idle.

If the screws feel siezed, then you should be ready to break some off, drill, and re-tap.
They are really long screws for adding on more baffles, but you can just replace them with shorter screws.

I removed my baffle plates and cut a big hole in the main plate. You can leave off the plate, but the raw steel underneath isn't pretty.

The hole is 1-1/2".





You can re-pack them like a Kerker, but it's a bitch to get the inner baffle out. It's just held in with friction, but is very tight. When the end plate was still intact, I removed the baffles and screwed the end cap back on with new, short screws. Then I dropped a big heavy steel flat washer into the intake. Then I dropped in a heavy steel bar and pounded it out while holding the muffler. If you vise mount it, the aluminum may crack. It took a while, but eventually came out. I repacked it, cleaned the steel rim and slathered it with anti-seize. Then it went back together pretty easily. When you clamp the muffler to the pipe, the clamp holds the aluminum AND the steel liner so neither can go anywhere.

EDIT: I just noticed yours looks like steel. I can't say if it's constructed differently from my aluminum one.

I maybe have 400 miles since I put this muffler on so it's not going to be a problem disassembling. Yes the muffler is chrome steel.
I don't know if it would be that easy to get the outlet hole drilled out of my end plate sized right for best performance, but the price is right . The open end (no baffle plates) probably wouldn't work too well without more carb work.
Here's the Supertrapp open end cap equivelant to 10 plates, $24.60 "racing use only"

The original Supertrapp steel mufflers have a welded main plate ahead of the removable discs & muffler cap. At least in mine., the main plate has a bunch of radially placed drilled holes which is the primary restriction. I enlarged the holes in the main plate with a drill and have been happy with the reasonably louder results.