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In checking the valve clearance again I checked the timing chain stretch also. It is just within spec, barely. I looked in my manual and it says that with the "T" mark lined up my camshafts should have the arrows pointing at the top of the head. I can line both marks on the cam up but the crank doesn't line up to it's mark. Here are some pics of the cams with the crank set correctly. The exhaust could go a little more forward and so could the intake as the arrow is slightly below the top. Could the chain be one link off on the crankshaft?

Post edited by: pidaster, at: 2006/05/07 19:01

Sorry, here are the other pics.



Post edited by: pidaster, at: 2006/05/07 19:03

Post edited by: pidaster, at: 2006/05/07 19:04

Ok, still haven't figured this out.

No one has any thoughts on this?
I am going to pull the oil pan and set it back one tooth on the crank in the next day or so.

The first two pics look real close to me. Where is the "T" mark when they're lined up like this?

The second pic is up at a higher angle so you can see the arrow. The first and last pics are fairly level. If you perfectly line both arrows to the head, your looking at the top half of each. This then puts the T mark nearly 1/4 inch off from the set mark on the housing. This is why I thought it could be one link off. I did buy this thing used and can't seem to get it timed just right. What the timing light shows to be correct it will idle but does not work well at anything higher. Time it by ear and it seems to run well but sort of feels like only three cylinders working.

Pid,
I had the same situation on an 1983 KZ750 l3. It just didn't want to line up no matter what I did. Teh bike has about 100K miles on it (I've owned it since day 1).

From the pics, your's looks correct. In my case the cam chain was streched past the point of good taste. You can tell by tuning the engine around with the cam cover inplace. if you hear the chain bind up and release as you turn the crank via the bolt on the end of the crank, the cam cahin is either stretched too much or the tensioner isn't working



You can see my pics here


www.bike-night.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=282

and

www.bike-night.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=287


Good luck

matt

If you have the correct tooth count then this is correct.
Look in the top of the camshaft cover. There is a guide. This guide pushes down on the chain betwene the two sprockets. It takes up enough chain to make the intake mark line up.

If you don't believe me, you can put the cover on and take it off. IMO one should loosen the tensioner before putting the cover on. It's not in the manual, but I do it.

-Duck

You might can see it in the second picture but the chain is dipped a little. I suppose it could just be the wear in the chain reaching close to the maximum link. I will be replacing the chain as well as many other things this winter.
Thanks for everybody's help and thoughts.

you're right, i did not notice that the
chain is not tensioned in your photos
tension it and recheck indicator positions and link count

forget how many teeth on the sprockets but to put in ball park,
360/40=9 so you'd be off 9 degrees on a 40 tooth
360/30=12 so you'd be off 12 degrees on a 30 tooth

with stock cams an error will make for poor running

After spending much time on the bike this morning. I do not believe the chain has jumped. I think it's just from the chain reaching it's maximum length before replacement. I even tried to get it to jump with the tensioner loose. I ordered a manual tensioner to help it out a bit.