Just picked up my first bike

1980 KZ 1000 LTD

It was a steal so I had to get it. I can hold my own when it comes to auto mechanics..but this is my first venture into the bike world.

Tank and fenders are pretty worn, All I know about this bike is that it has a problem with the carbs...the guy told the floats were sticking?

Where should I start with this?

80KZ1000 wrote:

...All I know about this bike is that it has a problem with the carbs...the guy told the floats were sticking...

Welcome to the site!

Only one cure for sticking floats: Take out the carbs and clean them.

But before that, here's a couple steps you need to do first:

Get a manual. Nothing better then the "Kawasaki Service Manual". Yes, I'm preaching.

Search this forum (and the archive, find the link above) for carb cleaning.

...then, yank out the carbs, take off the float bowls, and inspect. Then return here and tell us what you see. Maybe even post a pic or two...

Enjoy!!

Welcome to the site.
Ditto on the manual.
Be sure and post pics.
It's always nice to see before/after pics.

Welcome 80KZ1000! Explore this site well...the answers to many of your questions have been posted(probably)...include the archives in your searches. As for the the shop manual...I recommend you take your time and watch eBay for the KHI (Kawasaki Heavy Industries) FSM (Factory Service Manual). You might expect to pay between US$10.00 to $40.00, depending on the interest at the time. When bidding on eBay, make sure you select the later edition (early edition FSM may only cover 1977/78 models. If you have the original motor with the frame, then you have a MKII motor, which do differ in some ways from earlier model KZ1000's. Be also advised that when asking if your year 'B' (all 1977-80 LTD KZ1000's are termed B models) is covered on the manual, none of the 'B' models are specifically covered in the KHI manuals (whereas 'A' and 'D' models are). However, the manual will work for much of what you may need. To get a specific 'B' manual, Kawasaki published a year-specific supplement manual for all the LTD's (this manual will frequently refer you to the main manual). These supplements are also occasionally available on eBay (but don't buy the supplement instead of the 'A' manual).

Ok thanks for the advice.

I know it has bigger carbs and bigger head. I don't know if a bigger head means bored out ports or an actual bigger head. The heat sinks on the head to look like they are worn differently from the block though. Once this damn rain stops I should be able to get out there with a camera and start things.

PS I'm right in Boston if any locals want some free beer (hint hint)

Hey 80 KZ,
Welcome, we are getting more and more New Englanders in here! Someone is going to tell you, put your location in your signature line, and post pictures of your bike. "Before" pictures are good!
When you say Boston, are you talking in the city, or a 'burb?

Ok I'll do that.

Oh and I live right on Tremont St in Boston. And we are suppose to have some sunshine tomorrow so I'll definitely take some pics

Ok.. sorry no pictures yet my roommate took the camera with him for the weekend.

I took the carbs off today, pulled the float bowl covers, cleaned those, took the floats out, cleaned the bowls. I took the valve covers off too, but everything looked really clean? so I just put them back on.

I checked the floats, I don't see any holes or anything, and they bounce fine, they are right in the middle too.

The PO put 4 seperate cone filters on the carbs so it made it very easy to take off.

Should I replace the fuel filters? They are the disk style ones.

Also the rear master cylinder looks like it exploded, and the rear break pedal is jammed up. How is replacing the rear master cyl? Is it just replacing it, replacing junk linkes and rebleeding them all?

Welcome to KZr 80KZ1000!


80KZ1000 wrote:

I took the carbs off today, pulled the float bowl covers, cleaned those, took the floats out, cleaned the bowls.

I checked the floats, I don't see any holes or anything, and they bounce fine, they are right in the middle too.

You'll want to check the float needles to see if the tips on them are worn, and also be sure to check the needles seats for any debris, blockage or wear marks/pitting.

80KZ1000 wrote:

The PO put 4 seperate cone filters on the carbs so it made it very easy to take off.

Ahhhh! Now here we might be onto something.
If the PO put the individual air filters (pod filters) on there and didn't re-jet the carbs, that will create a lean problem.
Now if he did indeed rejet the carbs, it's also possible that he may have gone larger than needed on the main jet and adjusted the needle incorrectly, therefore causing a rich running condition.

80KZ1000 wrote:

Should I replace the fuel filters? They are the disk style ones.

Are you refering to the air filters, or does your bike actually have a fuel filter hooked up to each carb?
If that latter, that's not how all the carbs are supposed to receive their fuel supply.
There should be one hose coming from the fuel tap that will connect either to a fitting on the #2 carb (numbered left to right as you're sitting on the bike), or will connect to a "T" fitting between the #1 and #2 carbs. That line supplies fuel to all 4 carbs.
The fuel tap (if the original one) will also have a slightly smaller hose coming from it that will go to either the fitting on one of the intake manifolds that's between the carb and the cylinder head (the fittings on the other 3 manifolds should have a rubber plug caping them off), or to a fitting directly on one of the carb bodies.
That hose is a vacuum hose, since the original fuel tap is operated by engine vacuum.

80KZ1000 wrote:

Also the rear master cylinder looks like it exploded, and the rear break pedal is jammed up. How is replacing the rear master cyl? Is it just replacing it, replacing junk linkes and rebleeding them all?

Your best bet would be to remove it for inspection and cleaning/rebuilding.
You should be able to find rebuild kits available on eBay, or try Z1 Enterprises .
Z1 Enterprises is owned by one of the members of this site (Jeff Saunders).
He has really good prices, and his service is outstanding!
If you're unable to flush the original brake hose out and/or if it's cracking or weathered, and if you can afford it, you can always replace the brake hose with a stainless braided hose (Z1 Enterprises or eBay will have them).

Post edited by: RetroRiceRocketRider, at: 2006/05/04 22:57

hey ive been to tremont st in boston,,i learned a new english language there such as the hobba (where ships go) you drink watta (what we call water down here)and get off the subway on pock street(the sign on the subway said park st)but i figured out. anyhow great people and city.welcome to the forum