Running VERY poorly 650!!!!

Ok, opened up the carbs and found some problems

First, there was no washer for the main jet in three of the carburetors.

I did the following
1.) Test the timing (perfect)
2.) Set the float bowl height (perfect)
3.) Replaced a broken float bowl pin with a nail of the same diameter
4.) 3 of the 4 main jet washers were missing, replaced with new washers 0.5mm too thick (will this cause a problem?)
5.) Shot the snot out of the carburetor with carb spray
6.) Replaced 3 of the 4 main jets with 110's (I have another 110 ordered locally should be in by thursday)

Here is my plan for the rest of the work
1.) Replace spark plugs
2.) Correct washers for main jets
3.) New Pilot jet plug O-rings
4.) Synchronize Carbs
5.) Check the no. 2 cylinders slide, lubricate and wet sand.

I noticed a big change for sure!
Here is the machines current performance


Starts great
Full Throttle
1-3K, No. 2 cylinder hardly fires
3K-6K, No. 2 cylinder kicks in intermittinly
6K-11K, runs like a raped ape on steroids.

1/4-1/2 throttle
1K-3K, No. 2 cylinder fires intermittenly
3K-6K, Runs nicely
6K-11K, ?????
Peter

Any more suggestions?

If you look at this entire thread, the one main constant appears to be the #2 cylinder firing sporadicly. I would make sure that the carbs have all their parts and are set up properly, as you are doing. Then I would focus on that constant. That coil and its wires/end caps etc. I'm no mechanic, but this #2 firing problem can be seen throughout this discussion. Oops, just saw that you changed wires/end caps. It might still be a buggered coil going in and out.

Post edited by: gas, at: 2006/05/02 13:46

replace the #2 spark plug.

OK update

3 out of four of my needle jets were ON TOP of the "spring seat." I put those ON THE BOTTOM of the "spring seat" as the manual shows is correct. Now the bike runs a little crazy, but I think I'm getting closer. I synchronized the carbs,too.

Performance

Idle
No. 2 cylinder firing sporadically. Otherwise great

WOT
2-3K - Engine dies completely
4-5K - Stutter
5K-11K - Runs awesome until gearshift
After gearshift it stutters like crazy

1/2 throttle
1-6.5K - Engine runs pretty good

1/4 Throttle
1-5K - Engine runs good, no. 2 cylinder likely not firing until 2.5K.

I've swapped coils+spark plugs, it has not made any difference. I've also bench tested the coils.

Peter

Did you say you had the Dyan ignition? Might try swapping out with old style points to see if it helps. Also, swap coil feeds and/or coil packs. For example, swap 2-3 to 1-4, if you can get the cables to reach to 1-4, and swap the connectors (green and black I believe)... but strangely if 3 is firing, theres no reason 2 shouldn't be either unless its a bum coil. :S

I take it when you say 2 fires sporaddically, you are verifying this with a timing light, correct :huh:

Post edited by: KayZowner, at: 2006/05/02 17:22

KayZ - No I don't have dyna, just the stock electronic ignition that came on the 82 KZ650. I believe at this point the ignition has been tested to death.

After an excruciatingly through cleaning of my no. 2 carb, it now fires about 80% of the time, which is good enough until I put in my new top end (incl. carbs). The rest of the powerband is all there, with a slight stutter from 5K-6K WOT.

Thanks to all and one more question:
IS the needle jet supposed to sit above or below the spring retainer?

Geesh... there is soooo much info here it is hard to see the forest for the trees. First thing I would do is swap the #2 and #3 plug wires and see if the problem moves to the #3 plug. If it doesn't, the problem is with your carbs. At that point, just post in the carb section... if the carb is the cause and you are firing intermittently, then more info on the carbs will be needed...

newbikekiller wrote:

Thanks to all and one more question:
IS the needle jet supposed to sit above or below the spring retainer?

According to the diagram at Buy Kawasaki.com the order of assembly from top to bottom is spring, needle plate, then E-clip.

HTH,

- Nate >>

I believe that the plug caps have resistors in them. Might want to ohm the caps and see what reading you get.