Rejet with Kerker 4 into 1

My only direct experience is on a 750 twin which runs 125 mains stock. When I went to a very free flowing 2-1 header with street baffle, the right main was 130. I would be surprised if a street baffle needed much more than a main that is maybe "5" bigger? Maybe a little more.

easy to tell if it's rich. It will feel "boggy" at wide open throttle at RPM range from about 5K up to redline.

kzconvert_86 wrote:

I know I should be running it down the road for this to get it under load, Thanks mtbspeedfreak for the tip, I went with that filter so hope it works!!

If you know that then you know that the reading will not be correct. When you do it make sure you do it right, pull the clutch and hit the kill switch at the same time, then let go of the throttle. If you ride it down the road then putt back up your driveway it's going to give a false reading because you changed the way it was running. Remember to hold the clutch in until it's stopped.

If you know that then you know that the reading will not be correct. When you do it make sure you do it right, pull the clutch and hit the kill switch at the same time, then let go of the throttle

ALl right, all right, I'll do it the right way! Took it down the road last night, revved her to 4k in first for about 30 seconds and hit the kill switch and clutch at the same time. Never knew I was that coordinated... Ran the test a couple times just to be sure it wasn't in my head.

At any rate, checked the plugs again this time they were only slightly wet, so I think I will just try moving the clip up on the needle to the first slot, as its on the second right now. Throttle response was pretty good up till about 4k, got a little sluggish after that. Airfilter will be here tomorrow, I'll throw that in and run the test again to see if makes any difference before I move the clip on the needles.

Hi KZconvert, As Roy said, Z1 enterprise has the jets and gaskets needed. I did buy some metric Nitril O'rings from Harbor Freight for about $10.00, and replaced all the old ones in my carbs.Bob

I know its a big PITA removing and re-installing the carbs so often but trust me - only make one change at a time, else you could just be chasing your tail around for weeks. :laugh:

...and DONT BOTHER WITH PLUG READINGS... :blink: they used to work fine in the old days, but now with the detergents and ethanol in your gas, your plugs will be very light tan, if at all when your getting the most power to the ground, and thats fine, its not too lean. DONT EVEN LOOK AT THE PLUGS unless you suspect knocking or missfire.
Ever take a plug out of a drag bike - they look decievingly lean for running mostly super rich under power.

Use your butt dyno. You have the best mixture when you get the most power where you want it, and thats pretty much it. You get the most power from a slightly rich mixture anyways, so being too lean is far from the equation.

Pilots and mix screws = low speed and smooth transition into accelleration.
Needle = accelleration
Mains = accelleration from around 3/4 up on the throttle and high speed power.

Best of luck!

"DONT BOTHER WITH PLUG READINGS... they used to work fine in the old days, but now with the detergents and ethanol in your gas, your plugs will be very light tan, if at all when your getting the most power to the ground, and thats fine, its not too lean. DONT EVEN LOOK AT THE PLUGS unless you suspect knocking or missfire."....

You must be joking.... :huh:

TeK9iNe wrote:

You get the most power from a slightly rich mixture anyways, so being too lean is far from the equation.

WHAT?! :blink: Most power from being on the rich side? That statement is so far from right that it's wrong. An engine makes the most power when it's on the verge of detonation, which is the result of a lean condition. It's a fine line to walk down in the quest for max power output, why do you think so much bad shit happens on the dyno? It's because they lean it out to achieve maximum power output and get greedy looking for the big numbers and BOOM!, blown motor.