Synthetic Oils

hocbj23 wrote:

Rotella T 15-40 in my 82 KZ...seeps from cam plug gasket even though I've changed them twice....

If not already tried, first cleaning the mating surfaces with acetone, and then applying a thin layer of silicone sealant to the mating surfaces before reassembly, works for me in keeping the cam plugs leak free.
I use the oem style rubber cam plugs.

Good Fortune!

Yessir.I did that the 2nd time I installed the oem plugs.Still seeping a bit from the left rear gasket.oh,well I will do it again in the spring.Lol.bj

hocbj23 wrote:

Yessir.I did that the 2nd time I installed the oem plugs.Still seeping a bit from the left rear gasket.oh,well I will do it again in the spring.Lol.bj

Forgot to mention my reference was to sealing the half-moon cam plugs on Z1 and KZ900, and not the different J model style plugs.

Good Fortune!

The half moon things are the same basic idea of course on the J engine, but the J seemed to suffer more from leaks than the older model. Well actually the J suffered all the way around more than the older models. I still love the J model though as my dad had a new 81 and I had a new 1982 GPZ1100 that was fantastic other than in typical J fashion it fell apart. Don't mean to downgrade your bike for sure though as they were beautiful and ran great but not without their problems that were many, many even when new. Patton recommends RTV and that may be fine, but I never had any luck with it. yamabond #4 is along the same line, semi hardening, but seems more forgiving and will seal those end plugs every time if new ones are installed. If they leak, throw them out and replace, don't bother sealing crap end plugs. You seal with Yamabond #4, I would about guarantee no leaks for years to come.

I don't see too many J models for sale either. Took me a few years of looking to find this one, but it needed lots of (mostly) cosmetic work. Still needs some, but is good enough.

On KZ & J heads that have leaking cam end plugs, I've found engine case sealer works very well.

Lightly sand the cut outs in the head with #600 paper, clean with brake cleaner. Apply case sealer to the rubber plugs.

Some of those after market cam end plugs for KZ's are trash. I've thrown more than a few away.

Another tip on KZ's is to use OEM cam end plugs and install them with the cutout facing out. The lip is on the inside that way. It helps hold the plug in and improves the seal. Use sealer that way also.

Suzuki used to ship their bikes with the end plugs installed like that.

Most times if you use new [nice & soft] end plugs on your J model head with sealer, the problem goes away. It's when old, hard end plugs are reused that the problem most generally seems incurable.

All of those motors can be made 100% lead free, no matter what oil you run.

Oh.. forgot, Grumpy that J is beautiful!

CoreyClough wrote:

Just for information, I hooked up an oil temp gauge to the oil in the pan, and on my daily commuter in low to mid 40 degree F weather here in San Francisco, I'll get to work and the oil temp is 220-230F, with the stock GPz550 oil cooler. On the race bike in the heat of the summer I get 280-290F, and that's with a larger oil cooler. 20w-50 will work for any temp I care to ride in. Not dissing you TeK9Ne, just stating my experiences.

I couldn't imagine what the oil temps would be without a cooler.

Just remember to change it about every 6 months, as a rule. Moistues will get in there, and it collects in the pan, because water is heavier than oil. If you've never removed the pan, give it a look.

No diss taken

In diesel engines, the top rings expose oil to temps over 600F (315C), twice the temp ratings of regular motorcycle oils. They are formulated for heavy-duty use, and provide good high speed sheer resistance, and modifiers to prevent flat tappet wear.

I've tried tons of oils in my "cheaper" days :laugh:

I used Amsoil 20w50 before and I found it too thick. Made starting slower/lethargic, and took much longer to come to temp. When it did start to loosen up, it actually got 5-10 degrees hotter than the Rotella.
I would never have switched if it werent for this site, but I'm a changed man now. Diesel oil, all the way. Starts easier and warms quicker. Lower overall temp, and super high heat and impact protection.

... Thing is - I don't live in the desert! :laugh:

Some oils are not rated for racing however, and modifications to the bike should always be considered. Check with the manufacturer as many ois specifically say NO RACING.

CoreyClough wrote:

Just remember to change it about every 6 months, as a rule. Moistues will get in there, and it collects in the pan, because water is heavier than oil. If you've never removed the pan, give it a look.

Internal combustion engines are pretty good emulsifiers of oil and water mixtures. If you're finding water in your oil pan it's not because water is heavier than oil. It's because the engine has been started and shut down repeatedly without giving it enough time to get up to operating temperature.

Bill

KZCSI wrote:

CoreyClough wrote:

Just remember to change it about every 6 months, as a rule. Moistues will get in there, and it collects in the pan, because water is heavier than oil. If you've never removed the pan, give it a look.

Internal combustion engines are pretty good emulsifiers of oil and water mixtures. If you're finding water in your oil pan it's not because water is heavier than oil. It's because the engine has been started and shut down repeatedly without giving it enough time to get up to operating temperature.

Bill

This was found on used engines, not on the ones I've been running since cleaning them out. I am guessing this is from sitting a long time.

Thanks for the info.

Me personally don't buy into the "synthetic is better protection" hype for a 25 year old street driven motorcycle.
I also don't recommend a full synthetic in a 25 year old motorcycle wet clutch.If the clutch is near the end of it's life, a synthetic could cause it to slip. I would rather save the difference between mineral vs. syn and just do an extra oil change ! I run Kawi 10-40 in all my bikes.

Polar_Bus wrote:

I would rather save the difference between mineral vs. syn and just do an extra oil change

Exactly what I do. Oil has a lot of other stuff like detergents and solvents and changing at shorter intervals keeps your engine a lot cleaner throughout.

As long as it has the proper amount of ZDDP and you don't overdo the viscosity either is fine. I ran pure synthetic for years and had 60k on a bike and never had a clutch slip. If the clutch is slipping because you think you are using the wrong oil than it's time to replace the clutch springs. The only thing you have to be careful of is that the oil has NO Molybdenum or PTFE in it. Those will load up a clutch and make it slip like mad.