Kicker wont turn motor

So, this is my first kickstart bike since I was a kid, (1980 kz1000), for some reason, when you move the kickstart lever, it has resistance, and the countershaft sprocket moves slightly, but the engine doesnt turn over. Pulled a spark plug to look and confirm.

It (kicker) cycles down freely, and returns fine, ratchet sounds good. Seems really strange....

Thanks.

I guess it could be clutch related.

Pull the sparkplugs and with the bike in neutral, it should turn over. If not, spray some PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, re-install the plugs & let sit for a few days.

let go of the clutch while kicking.

Perhaps a clutch push rod adjustment is needed.

Good Fortune!

This covers clutch cable replacement, but the adjustments are toward the bottom of this procedure:

Clutch Cable Replacement On some Kawasaki Motorcycles

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES, or any wires from the alternator), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

It is defenately not a cable issue, I'm almost positive it's a clutch issue, I can actuate the lever by hand, gives good even resistance through it's travel. The bike isn't operational, I just got it, and when to turn the motor over to see how it went, nothing, I'm figuring the clutch is either worn out or stuck in the disengaged position somehow.

Should the clutch actuator rod have some spring at the end of it's travel inward?

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessaily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

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end of excerpt

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While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch pushrod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch pushrod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch pushrod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.

Good Fortune!

I appreciate all the tips, but I am fully aware of how to adjust my clutch cable/rod.

If the actuator rod is removed, the clutch still does not engage. At the end of its travel it hits a dead stop, no resistance, no spring.

I will pull the clutch cover to inspect, bike has been sitting for a bit, so I am figuring it is sticking, as it doesnt seem to be engaging *at all*.

notaduc wrote:

It is defenately not a cable issue, I'm almost positive it's a clutch issue, I can actuate the lever by hand, gives good even resistance through it's travel. The bike isn't operational, I just got it, and when to turn the motor over to see how it went, nothing, I'm figuring the clutch is either worn out or stuck in the disengaged position somehow.

Should the clutch actuator rod have some spring at the end of it's travel inward?

Should the clutch actuator rod have some spring at the end of it's travel inward? -- No, Sir, it should not.

...figuring the clutch is either worn out or stuck in the disengaged position.... --- or damaged/missing plate(s).

As known, PO's do strange things.:S

Would concur with plan at this point to disassemble and inspect.

Good Fortune!

If needed (from kawasaki.com) --

Looks like a good portion of my clutch is missing... #8 outward.

Luckily, they are plentiful.