Valve guide material

I picked up a used Sioux seat grinder complete with small engine equipment for a C note a year ago, knowing my bike needed a valve job. I set up the lathe with a collet and the tool post grinder to do the valves. I've been practicing on old Austin Healy valves, and have an old Healy head to tune up the seat grinder. The valves are coming out pretty nice. True, with a good finish. You got any tips or tricks to pass along to me to improve my chances for success on the head? I don't think it's going to be too tough, but I'm glad to listen to those with experience.
Tom

TomW wrote:

I'll check the Machinery Handbook for speeds and feeds. You make it sound like quite a challenge. Here's hoping I don't need them. I'm building a table to put the bike up on tonight. Tomorrow I'll start the tear down. Thanks for the insight.
Tom

It shouldn't be too bad. The length to diameter ratio of a vavle guide isn't too high, and the hole isn't blind. Those two issues cause the most complications. I just don't want you to go into this thinking that the stuff is a cakewalk. When you look up the speed/feed in the Handbook, it should be in the third category of Copper alloys with all the phosphor bronze and beryllium copper. Also keep in mind that especially the feed rates in there a optomistic for smaller equipment, but I'm sure you know that. Good luck.

you guys are making my head hurt! :laugh:

Try a little corn squeezins, works for me.
Tom

:laugh:

I have always heard of quality aftermarket valve guides made from silicon bronze.

I used to operate manual and cnc machine equipment for a living and wouldn't bother trying to make valve guides unless I had a lot of spare time and could turn them out reliably on the cnc to resell, which is hard to do at a price lower than a specialist already doing it....

Im all for making anything on my own, but some things just arent worth it.

Silicon bronze is what I had read also. Can't remember where.

In my original post I stated I was THINKING about it. I don't even know if I need them yet.

I think if you can do it yourself, and do it right, it is worth it, even if you only make or save $50 over store bought.

Also, manganese bronze. I feel like I remember silicon bronze having better wear characteristics, but manganese having better heat transfer...



I really enjoy manual machining, but, without a very nice lathe with a dro, making 16 of these is not something I would undertake at $9.54 each. Keeping in ming special tooling, and materials needed, plus throw aways...

Maybe with a cnc.

notaduc wrote:

Also, manganese bronze. I feel like I remember silicon bronze having better wear characteristics, but manganese having better heat transfer...

I really enjoy manual machining, but, without a very nice lathe with a dro, making 16 of these is not something I would undertake at $9.54 each. Keeping in ming special tooling, and materials needed, plus throw aways...

Maybe with a cnc.

CNC, Shmee NC. This is the perfect job for a small manual lathe, the kind you should have in your basement. An Atlas, Logan, or South Bend. I have a 12X36 Clausing built around 1964. I love the challenge. Heck, that's why we work on these bikes ourselves. We enjoy the challenge, the satisfaction of doing it ourselves. It's always easier to give the job to an expert, money notwithstanding. I've been screwed by enough expert mechanics to make an attempt at doing it myself a very worthwhile endeavor. There's nothing much else to in the winter in Wisconsin anyway, Can't ride, the beer freezes if I go fishing, might as well make some chips. GO PACK!!

notaduc wrote:

making 16 of these is not something I would undertake

You got a 4 valve head on your 'KZ' or 2 bikes?

Sometimes you're further ahead to just buy the correct guides from the start. I install lots of valve guides in these old KZ heads. Having guides that will go in smooth and straight is everything because the valve job absolutely depends on it...

Depending on how fussy one gets with the VJ....

There is such a thing as stepping over dollars to save dimes...

JMO

I agree with you, Larry. Buying the guides would be simpler, quicker and would guaranty high quality. It's just a question of cost, $65 from APE or $15 from a metals supplier. I have no question in my mind if I make them, they will work well.

We'll soon see if I need them. I've got the bike up on the bench and the cam cover off. I'll do a leak down test tonight and pop the head off tomorrow.