1984 Kz 700 valve adjustment.

I'm contemplating adjusting my own valves. Mine has the under bucket shims and a local mechanic tells me that these are a real pain to adjust. 1st question: what are the necessary tools to do this? 2nd, does the timming chain streach like the drive chain? 3rd, if I have a burnt valve or more what might I expect after it's back together and I don't replace the bad valves? 4th, does the timming chain have a master link? 5th, what is the going rate for shim kits (13mm I believe)? I'm not mechanicaly uninclined, nore am I unfamilar with presicion work but I haven't tore into a motor this deep before.

Yes they are more of a pain than the shim on top bikes, but the alternative is a premature valve job.

1)Metric sockets, torque wrench, feeler gauges, gasket scraper, service manual, I'm sure that I'm forgetting something.

2)Yes

3)Leaking valves on that cylinder(s) and low compression.

4)No, the factory chain doesn't have a link, but the new chains can be had with master links. So you cut or break the old chain, and install the new chain with the master link. Beats tearing down the whole motor to replace the chain.

5)click the link:http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1852
Personally I wouldn't order a kit. Just measure your clearances per the manual and make up a chart with the current clearance on both valves on each cylinder. Then pull the cams and the buckets. Make another chart with the current shim sizes on each cylinder. Often, it is possible to swap shims from one position to another to achieve the correct lash on most cylinders. Then update your charts, and order the remaining shims that you need. If you order the shims alone from Z1Enterprises, they can put them in a priority mail envelope. You will get them in 3 days tops. You will never need all the shims in the kit unless you have a shop or something.

The number one piece of advice is in the answer to question #1. Get the factory service manual for your bike. It will serve you well in the future.

Also, if you are not replacing the cam chain, then zip tie it to the cam sprockets in position before you remove anything. That should keep the cam timing set. This is critical, if you get the lash right, and screw up the cam timing in the process, then you are worse off.

Hope this helps.

BTW, welcome to KZR.