"break in oil" - product alert - avoid this one!

For a proper education on engine oil see Joe Gibbs racing website. You MUST be ready to load engine shortly after first start up to seat rings if you don't have to break in the cam (singular cam means car). KZ engines have a large surface area, cam & bucket vs spring presure. I've heard of the rings that never seat and are associated with synthetic oil used during break in, I wouldn't do it, but I use 20w-50(turbo) or 15w 40 diesel oil(na)

fordtruck wrote:

When I rebuilt my 77 KZ1000 and installed MTC pistons, I followed there advice to not put oil on the pistons and rings. It put the smallest puff of blue smoke out the exhaust when I first started it. After that it doesn't smoke or use oil.

i also used MTC pistons and i dont remember anywhere anything saying not to put a thin coat on skirts and rings during assembly....in fact, i remember instructions saying to lube everything during assembly......go figure...:blink:

Break in procedures are like talking about religion. My observation was this: if you had to do anything fancy or clever to get rings to seat, most of the bikes on the road would be spraying oil out the pipe like a crop duster.

When my 750 was brand new, the break in procedure I used was just to ride it in the city. Same thing for the engine when I rebored it. The rings seated perfectly both times. maybe I'm lucky.

breakin in a new motor is prob the most important step in the rebuild process, done wrong , and you get to do it all over again.
I have built a ton of race car motors, and dyno or not, set everything close to spec as you can , fire it up and run it at about 3k rpm for 30 min making sure to check timing and keep an eye on temps and oil.
bring it down to a idle and let run for 10 min to shut down.


just my 10 cents worth

If your friend thinks that running a 1/4 mile pass without a water pump fixed the problem, then he's not quite the "pro" mechanic you think he is.
Sounds like improper cylinder wall finish for type of rings being used.
I have used that products on several motors and never had an issue, and also never wiped out a cam lobe, which is the real usage for it.

Once at work we had a person return some Mobil 1 10w40 bike oil because it didn't look right when they opened it. When I looked at it it was probably 90% water. Something had to have gone wrong during the bottling process because all 4 quarts were the same full of oily water. I had never seen anything like it before or since. Stuff like that can happen when the whole bottling process is automated.

Injected wrote:

Drag racers usually don't have the luxury of being able to break motors in anyways, so I believe these guys have a set procedure they follow - no idling is a given.( /quote]

Yup, a couple of heat cycles,retorque and head for the burnout box. Dino oil for 1 pass, then the good stuff of your choice...never had a problem.