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I bought an OEM gasket from my local kaw dealer and it is very form fitting shall we say. I also have an old gasket kit from kawasaki from an old shop(I dusted it off) and the pan gasket is larger in a few places and actually has a piece that cuts across the pan where there is no sill(for lack of a better term) for it to rest on. I also bought a 'bottom end' gasket kit, also OEM that has this same enlarged gasket, all supposed to fit the same bikes(kz 650s of varying years) Has anyone noticed this? Which one is the one I should use? The one i bought new seems to make the most sense as it would allow free flow whereas the oversized one to me seems weird and the piece that goes across would have the potential for breaking off one would think.....

thanks in advance guys! are there any women on here? I just thought of that, maybe i shouldnt be gender biased......too many P.C courses at work...sorry

Hey XC - I was just looking at some gaskets tonite and I noticed that the one for an early year (1980 KZ750) gasket has the piece that crosses the middle of the pan. My stock '77 650 gasket did not have this and neither did the aftermarket 650 oil pan gasket I put on last year.

One reason for this might be to ad to the structural integrity ie. to help keep the wobbly gasket's shape when installing. I have never looked at a Kz750 oil pan so this is only a guess on my part. I will take a closer look over the next few days when I am reassembling the motor on my bench before installing the 650's oil pan. I will probably be cutting the cross bracing.

Cheers-Colin Firth -Ontario Canada

'77 Kz 650 Custom - (Miss July on 2006 Kzr Calendar,) Newest rebuild includes Wiseco 810 kit, Kz750 cams, Kz750 intake valves, 750 GPz springs, Ported head, WG Mikuni 28's, Velocity Stacks, Dyna Ignition and coils, MAC pipe, 14 tooth sprocket, going back to original '77 Moon Dust Silver. Goal is to have a stock-looking bike that will tighten up any loose dental fillings off the light.

colin

so are you thinking that they are selling or were selling a gasket that would fit either a 760 or a 650 and would expect you to buck off the extra part? I use this glue like stuff I think it is called Gasket Cinch or something like that. Its yellow and in a brush can(small can brush being part of the lid) and its purpose isnt as a sealant(i believe a properly installed and torqued gasket should seal itself) but it is used to hold the gasket in place while installing, I have used it in the past and it works great. On that topic does anyone have the tightening method for the oil pan? I was going to try a star-type method, with a good old hand torque wrench. Same for the cam cover while I am on that, star method ok? besides those inner 4 bolts....

Hey XC - If a part is interchangeable it is not beyond belief that sometimes they are swapped by the factory, especially if the exact part is not available. Something as cheap as a gasket, this is a possibility. I had a bike mechanic friend look at my gasket today and he said just to cut out the cross piece as everything else matched up.

I took a look in my 650 shop manual and couldn't find the torquing pattern for either the oil pan or valve cover gasket. I only found the cylinder head torque pattern. If you want I can photocopy the pattern and fax it off to you Friday at your work. Let me know if you need it and fire off your fax # to me.

You can't go wrong with a little gasket goop and an opposite torquing pattern. Just make sure you don't torque to the maximum amount the first time around, bring the levels up gradually do it fairly evenly in the same pattern.

Cheers-Colin Firth -Ontario Canada

Hey XC - I've spent the last hour cutting a new valve cover gasket. Nice to know my elementary school art skills finally came in handy. My grade 2 teacher would be proud of me and I didn't even cut myself once with the big kids scissors:)

I took a look at the mechanic's manual for the 650 from kawasaki....yes I am a lucky boy to have one in my shop. Here is what the shop manual calls for with respect to torque specs;

valve covers....61-78 inch-lbs.

oil pan.....61-78 inch-lbs.

cylinder head.......start with 18 ft-lbs then once all of the bolts are torqued to this level do them again at 25-29 ft-lbs. After giving the newly assembled motor a little break in, recheck the head bolts.

Hopefully this is of help.

Cheers-Colin Firth

'77 Kz 650 Custom - (Miss July on 2006 Kzr Calendar,) Newest rebuild includes Wiseco 810 kit, Kz750 cams, Kz750 intake valves, 750 GPz springs, Ported head, WG Mikuni 28's, Velocity Stacks, Dyna Ignition and coils, MAC pipe, 14 tooth sprocket, going back to original '77 Moon Dust Silver. Goal is to have a stock-looking bike that will tighten up any loose dental fillings off the light.

good info, will that same gasket material work for a base gasket too?

Thanks Colin that helps alot. I usually do the star type pattern on anything like that, especially aluminum and go evenly tighter and tighter etc. I was going to make my own gaskets but I got the complete gasket kit from this guy so cheap I couldnt resist, i think I paid 30 bucks for an entire kit and a bottom kit to my door. Cant beat that. I have an extra oil pan gasket thats yours if you want it, one hole is torn but that particular hole is inside the actual hole for the pan bolt(if that makes any sense) Let me know and I will mail it off to you since I owe you anyway.

xc

Thanks John but I am good to go with everything I need. This site is first class for guys always willing to lend a hand. Your offer is an example of KZR's spirit.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

xstreamcanadian wrote:

colin

I use this glue like stuff I think it is called Gasket Cinch or something like that. Its yellow and in a brush can(small can brush being part of the lid) and its purpose isnt as a sealant(i believe a properly installed and torqued gasket should seal itself) but it is used to hold the gasket in place while installing, I have used it in the past and it works great.

Our local dragster builder recommended this stuff too - thanks for the reminder XC.

It's advertised to assure proper sealing of all gaskets used in an intake manifold installation. Also effective on water pump, oil pan and valve cover gaskets. Water, oil, and temperature resistant. Allows easy removal.

www.pingelonline.com/gasgacinch_gasket_sealer.htm

I cant take credit, my dad is a heavy duty mechanic(retired) and he swears by it, and at it sometimes I am sure. It comes off super easy youre right, its good stuff. I was also steered toward this aviation gasket stuff, but didnt have as much luck, it seems to stay sticky forever.