1980 kz 1000 ltd questions

I have a 1980 kz 1000 with dyna coils and electronic ignition. It has a kerker exhaust. APE manual cam chain tenisoner. I got a oil cooler for it. The questions i have are.... I recently bought a 1075 kit with 10.25to 1 compression the jug is a stock jug bored and decked by schnitz racing. I purchased a bare 900 head. I am currently getting the head ported. and iam going with one over valves APE valve springs and titanuinm retainers. Iam goin with shim under buckets also. Anyways i have a set of Mikuni rs 36mm Carbs sitting on the shelf waiting to go on. But iam going to completely build the head. and i wanna know what is the best cams to run. I wanna get the hottest cam that will still be reliable on the street/strip. The next question is i got a used holsehot 2 electronic performance shifter and i was wondering how to install it. Thanks

someone on here has to have some good info. any help will be appreciated

Go to vindor directory and click on APE. Read up.

I personaly would not go shim under bucket. Roy

the 36mm carbs are a bit much as well (in my opinion)

RS36 will work but they're not the best choice for a 900 head or 1075 motor that will be street ridden. After all, you already have them.

What cams are you running? Picking the right cam is key if you spend 98% of the time street riding. You can build a mid 10 second street / strip 1075 motor that lives up to street expectations with the right cams.

Some good choices for a great street strip cam are:

Cam Motion Z1
Ape K410
Web Grinds 218, 483, 493 to name a few.

If the head flows well, run shorter duration .400" lift cam to help the ft.lbs department that the larger carbs are going to take away from the midrange.

All depends on how you want to ride it on the street.

What is the expected CFM of the head when completed.

Here's some information that will help you understand.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...ew&catid=2&id=406705

thanks for the help larrycavan and iam not really sure on cfm. i just got the 900 head thats getting built and i wanna build it strong. and i already got the 1075 kit and 36's. i just wanted to get the best cam for my set up. and i got a z1 bottom end that i would like to build also. i wanna get the crank lightened and balanced and welded. another question i was told that ideally you dont wanna weld the the crank. I was told you should drill it and pin it and weld the pin in. any input on this? ever heard of it?

Powerstroke_fan wrote:

thanks for the help larrycavan and iam not really sure on cfm. i just got the 900 head thats getting built and i wanna build it strong. and i already got the 1075 kit and 36's. i just wanted to get the best cam for my set up. and i got a z1 bottom end that i would like to build also. i wanna get the crank lightened and balanced and welded. another question i was told that ideally you dont wanna weld the the crank. I was told you should drill it and pin it and weld the pin in. any input on this? ever heard of it?

Send the crank to Stan Gardner at Gardner Racing Concepts. Here's one I sent recently. Same goal you're after except I had the billet 16T center pin installed as well. Not cheap.

www.cyclemadness.com/cmforum/index.php?topic=815.msg5664#new

Be smart if you're going with 37.5 intakes. Wait till the valve job is done, then order the cam you want with the correct size base circle to get your valve lash back in the middle of the range.

Also if you go Shim on Bottom you need to know that some buckets are 8 shim sizes thicker than others. Not a problem if you order custom base circle cams. But if you grab the .116" thick buckets vs .100" buckets and have a stock base circle cam with 37.5 intakes....well...you don't even want to know what a pain in the ass that is.

DO NOT RUN OEM SOB BUCKETS AGAINST PERFORMANCE SPRINGS..
Your head guy should know all about that. If he doesn't, holler back with a PM containing email address and I'll fill you in on the details.