Three Questions (w/ pics)

Ok so this is not only my first kz but also my first motorcycle. I have learned ALOTTTT since I have started this project but I still have some newb-ish questions, sorry .


Ok so first up is this crack.

How bad is that? its on the top of the engine on the right side of the bike if I am sitting on it. Is that crack going to make me lose compression or anything?


Next up is this piece ( the little shaft sticking out from the center of the exposed threads

There are really two questions just with this.
1. What is it? the little shaft rotates when the bike is running?
2. Im not an expert but Im pretty sure those threads shouldnt just be exposed, is there something that is supposed to be screwed on over it?


Finally, I think this filter is giving me a hard time.

Once I start the bike the filter will fill up with gas the way it is supposed to, but once the bike has sat and I come back to it, the filter is empty again. Any ideas?


Sorry if these questions are dumb or in the wrong place, and thanks for any help!

Welcome to the aitr. The first one is blocking off the smog stuff and I THINK you can fix that with some JB Weld. # 2 is the tach drive and #3 your carbs are leaking a little gas when parked and the filter goes dry till your vacume petcock lets it fill with gas when the motor runs.

Mark

Ok so i'm guessing the tach drive tells the tach how many rpms are occoring? If I am going to buy a tach, what is a reasonable amount for the tach to go to on an 82 kz550?

I would really like to get a tach and speedo for it this is why I am asking, dont want to get one that goes way higher then I need it to.


As far as the fuel, I unfortunately think your right ( unfortunate because Im wasting gas ), my garage kind of smells like gas. Should I ask around in the carb forum or is here ok?

You can get cheap old speedo and tach for your bike on eBay. one solution would be to block off that tach hole (I think there is a kit or something for that) and get an electronic tach it's much simpler, no cables or anything, there is just a wire that you hook up to your red line going to ignition coils. Just make sure it's from a 4 cylinder. And for the fuel leak you can rebuild your petcock with a kit from:

www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=KZ550

also check your gas tank to make sure there is no crud in there clogging the pet. If gas is leaking but not spilling out the back of your pods you may want to open your oil filler cap and smell the oil. If it smells like gas you need to drain it, replace it, and fix your pet along with change your float bowl valves in the carb(s) in question.

BTW if you go looking for a tach for your bike, it redlines at 10G's

Which model 1982 KZ550 do you have? I ask because according to Kawasaki.com the meters (gauges) for the A3 are different than those of the C3 (LTD) and the GPz. You should be able to pick up a set for little $ on eBay, but first be sure of the model you have and look up the part numbers so you don't get stuck with gauges from the wrong model. Ed

JonZweifel wrote:

Ok so first up is this crack.

How bad is that? its on the top of the engine on the right side of the bike if I am sitting on it. Is that crack going to make me lose compression or anything?

That port goes into the exhaust system. If it breakes off, it will suck air with no control (it previously was connected to a control valve, now gone on your bike). This will cause a lot of backfiring. I would take off that cover with the 4 bolts (two are short, and two are real long), remove the steel plug, and JBweld it as Mark said, or take it somewhere and have the entire hole welded up solid. You can cut off most of the port and just make sure the hole is patched somehow. There are new plates available, but I'm not sure if they are the right size for a 550.

JonZweifel wrote:

Next up is this piece ( the little shaft sticking out from the center of the exposed threads

There are really two questions just with this.
1. What is it? the little shaft rotates when the bike is running?
2. Im not an expert but Im pretty sure those threads shouldnt just be exposed, is there something that is supposed to be screwed on over it?

It's the tachometer drive, as others said. You can just leave it, but it will stay sealed longer if you can keep the weather out of it. Maybe find a big rubber or plastic cap for it. If you take out the little bolt holding the metal tab, the entire threaded portion will pull out with the tach drive gear.


JonZweifel wrote:

Finally, I think this filter is giving me a hard time.

Once I start the bike the filter will fill up with gas the way it is supposed to, but once the bike has sat and I come back to it, the filter is empty again. Any ideas?

Yes. I've tried several paper filters and they all do that nowadays (didn't used to). I think the glue holding the paper dissolves and gums up the filter. The best solution that has been working great for me is to use scintered bronze filters, or metal screen filters. I have to check next year and see if they filter as good as paper, though, but so far so good.

You need 5/16" filters. Z1E does not have them listed.

I use these:
www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/P...11&leafCatId=&mmyId=


www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/P...04&leafCatId=&mmyId=

@ 650ed: How would I be able to find out? My title only says 550 I think.. it MAY say LTD ill look when I get home. Thanks!

@9am53: Thanks I had already looked on ebay but I was having a hard time finding one that had a drive cable, ill see about getting an electronic one

as for the fuel leak I am a little confused now, the fuel is coming from my float bowl drain tubes but I dont understand why. I took apart the carbs about three weeks ago and cleaned them THOROUGHLY. Even when I opened them up all the jets were clear and all the pins moved as smooth as butter, no resistance at all. So im confused as to why this is happening.

@loudhvx: Thanks as markwing said it is for smog and im going to try to jb weld it for now and then have it cut down and welded shut in the future.

For the tach drive I think I have a rubber cap that will fit it, like I said I think Im going to shoot for an electronic tach.

For the filter thank you for telling me what size filter I need, I will give the metal ones a shot thanks!


@ everyone: Thanks for all the help Ive been doing well and learning but its definitly been a strugle hunting down the information its nice to be in a place with knowledgeable people about my bike!

JZ

Hi Jon, Buying a tach and tach cable on eBay is probably much cheaper than buying an electric one, and it would be back to stock condition. Bob

That is a 550 C (LTD) judging by the frame and wheels. The 550 A (standard) had an 18" back wheel and the frame was taller at the seat.

If it's an 82, then it's a C3.

The motor and carbs are the same, though, for most of the years. The last year for the A (83 A4) had different carbs and motor.

There is also another LTD. The 550 M, but that one was shaft drive, different motor, and different carbs.

Oh, and I should say, 5/16" was the size of the original fuel line (well, it was metric, but 5/16 is very close). I don't know what the peanut tank is using. But the carb's end is 5/16".

Hi Jon, Buying a tach and tach cable on eBay is probably much cheaper than buying an electric one, and it would be back to stock condition. Bob

You MIGHT break off the threads if you try and take that plug off. If you're going that route and you're successful, take the cover off and drill a fine hole at the end of the crack. Put the plug back in finger tight and seal the crack, drill hole, and threads from the outside. That's about the cheapest way to go and is reliable. If you don't want to attempt to take the plug out, I'd still remove the cover, drill the tiny hole, and cold weld it. The hole will relieve the stress and help prevent the crack from getting larger.

Aftermarket blanking plates are available that will eliminate the problem altogether. The link is here in the forums somewhere. They may have the right size for you. Those plates cover a wide range of engines. I've seen them as low as $20 a pair.