Tip for degreeing cams

You can use the shim removal notch as a good location for your indicator tip.

This is how I do them. Indicator setup is quick and the indicator tip doesn't walk on you.

It's usually no extra charge when you order new cams to have end ground off as well.

Although I have never degreed in cams, I hope to learn over the winter. Going to take an engine into the basement or den and experiment as I will need to know before spring. Yea, I live alone so this is entirely possible. So you can just keep these tips coming. I tend to be a slow learner sometimes, but once I know something it tends to stick with me. Will be rebuilding a couple motors other then stockers over the winter so this will come in handy when I get to that point. I think I have all the tools I'll need now but those that know who can share some tricks, things to look out for, possible problem areas, etc. can be a real time saver for us less smarter people on here. So all you brainiacs can start impressing the hell out of me and show me how smart you are and how to do this.

Having never done this before like some others, forgive any dumb questions we may have. First one...the pointer doesn't have a tendency to "walk" while the motor is being turned over? I just thoght that is would want to move around if and when the bucket turned/moved throughout the process. Does it walk much when you have to use on SOB buckets?

Getting the dial indicator tip to track is the most frustrating part.

The less drag on everything the easier it goes.

I often assemble one piston with just the top ring and no wristpin circlips. Assemble the head with light springs [hardware store] and valves in same end cylinder that piston is in.

Degree the cams, then yank it back apart and assemble normally.

Keep your math simple.

Large number - small number + 180 /2 = lobe center value

Make sure sprockets spin smoothly on cam sprocket boss before you bolt them in.

Install all three bolts but fully tighten only the bolts that coincide with the valve cover surface at installation position. One on each cam. Put a dot on that bolt with a paint stick so you don't get confused.

When needing to make an adjustment, if there's any issue with the cam not wanting to freewheel while the crank is moved, a screwdriver tip placed between the loosened bolt head and valve cover surface cures that problem.

I do the clean and loctite after I pull the cams back out. One bolt at a time, starting with either of the bolts that does not have the paint dot...DON'T do that one till last :laugh: or you'll be starting over....

Some time ago I needed to move the sprockets around on a 903 engine so a machinist friend of my fathers slotted and relived the area around the attaching bolts . Old Mr Bridgeman was a unique talent . It may not have been necessary but when I had the parts returned to me he also handed me a small handful of what looked like half moon metal bits . Ok so I ask wth are these for as he patiently and with only moderate disgust explains that they are to fill either side of the void caused by slotting the sprocket on at least one of the bolts to prevent the cam sprocket from rotating . Yes I had to chase after one or two before I was bright enough to use the procedure Larry outlined . I don't know that there is the possibility of a slotted cam sprocket moving . I never allowed mine to

kopcicle wrote:

Some time ago I needed to move the sprockets around on a 903 engine so a machinist friend of my fathers slotted and relived the area around the attaching bolts . Old Mr Bridgeman was a unique talent . It may not have been necessary but when I had the parts returned to me he also handed me a small handful of what looked like half moon metal bits . Ok so I ask wth are these for as he patiently and with only moderate disgust explains that they are to fill either side of the void caused by slotting the sprocket on at least one of the bolts to prevent the cam sprocket from rotating . Yes I had to chase after one or two before I was bright enough to use the procedure Larry outlined . I don't know that there is the possibility of a slotted cam sprocket moving . I never allowed mine to

offset bushings....we use those in car engines too...

once you degree once or twice it becomes very easy...

never done a bike engine but many, many car engines...

larrycavan wrote:

Getting the dial indicator tip to track is the most frustrating part.

The less drag on everything the easier it goes.

I often assemble one piston with just the top ring and no wristpin circlips. Assemble the head with light springs [hardware store] and valves in same end cylinder that piston is in.

Degree the cams, then yank it back apart and assemble normally.

Keep your math simple.

Large number - small number + 180 /2 = lobe center value

Make sure sprockets spin smoothly on cam sprocket boss before you bolt them in.

Install all three bolts but fully tighten only the bolts that coincide with the valve cover surface at installation position. One on each cam. Put a dot on that bolt with a paint stick so you don't get confused.

When needing to make an adjustment, if there's any issue with the cam not wanting to freewheel while the crank is moved, a screwdriver tip placed between the loosened bolt head and valve cover surface cures that problem.

I do the clean and loctite after I pull the cams back out. One bolt at a time, starting with either of the bolts that does not have the paint dot...DON'T do that one till last :laugh: or you'll be starting over....

Just wondering why u would assemble one piston, one ring, and then take it apart again. Is the base gasket in? The head gasket? And is it torqued? Just seems like alot of work for no real gain in time savings or functionality. The motor doesn't drag much anyway, what ya got the spark plugs in too? :woohoo: That's gonna hurt. But hey I'm just askin., you'll probably be on here explaining it all with good reasons behind it all. Just that a new guy is going to follow your steps and ..... Guess he'll know after he's done what works well and what doesn't . Latex gloves please? The mask? Thank you Assistant. Omar the assistant has issues, only other applicant was Nads.com whose screwed his head up, and is completely nuts. The background music is playing. Willy won't go home. Ear plugs, body suit and decon chamber all ready. 4 oclock in the morning. Time for one more rotation before dawn. Such fun is life, just need better glasses, better gloves, better assistant. Damn OMAR. Where the heck did he go? Soon as the gloves are out he gone. What's matter with that guy?