Question - Clutch?

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17 Apr 2006 23:53 #40391 by 77_650B1
Question - Clutch? was created by 77_650B1
Last summer I noticed that my bike had great acceleration down low, but when I got to aroudn 100km/h or so, she atarted to rev really high. ANd when I was going 130km/h(81mph) the bike would be at or near redline. Is this most likely my clutchpack? Thats what I thought, but I could be wrong.

1977 KZ650-B1
-Dual Discs
-Dyna-S
-WG Coil Mod
-Alloy Wheels

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18 Apr 2006 04:32 #40420 by btchalice
Replied by btchalice on topic Question - Clutch?
if you havent changed the sprocket sizes and it is different that the year before then i would have to say the clutch is probably slipping.

Terry Meyer / Wichita KS
76 kz900 w/1000 motor TWZTD
I am not driving too fast, I'm flying too low.

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18 Apr 2006 05:01 #40427 by Max2022
Replied by Max2022 on topic Question - Clutch?
When I roll on the throttle the clutch begins slipping because I'm 100% open, the bike is at 9000rpm, and it's not transfering all it's power to the wheel. 530 chain and a Barnet clutch kit will fix that.

If you do buy a barnet clutch kit(Got mine for $171 from cyclegear) make sure to get 3 OEM springs and set them up like a Y , 3 barnet springs, 3 oem springs. The barnet springs are much too stiff for street use.

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18 Apr 2006 05:32 #40433 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic Question - Clutch?
Since I don't have much money, I tend to check the bits already on my bike that might cause a problem like this... such as adjusting the clutch. Have you adjusted your clutch yet?

Second, while heavy duty clutches sound manly, I tend to not really enjoy riding with clutch springs that require big lever effort. If the clutch is adjusted, and you need new bits, the bits will either be the friction plates OR springs...

I would buy stock friction plates and springs since they are less expensive, tend to last a long time and keep lever effort at a reasonable level while still allowing the clutch to work as it should. On a 900, you can measure the spring length and that will tell you if the springs are OK... I LIKE springs that are slightly tired as it reduces clutch lever effort. The job of a spring is to hold the plates together for friction so if the friction plate thickness is within spec, and the springs are shot, replace them only. If you find the springs OK and the plates are thin, replace them only. I would also look at the steel plates while in there to ensure they are not warped. A 650 manual will lay out all procedures. It ain't very hard.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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18 Apr 2006 12:37 #40548 by 77_650B1
Replied by 77_650B1 on topic Question - Clutch?
Thanks guys, I did adjust the clutch, adn installed a new cable. I guess the next thing is to just wait till I see her again check her out like you said.

1977 KZ650-B1
-Dual Discs
-Dyna-S
-WG Coil Mod
-Alloy Wheels

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18 Apr 2006 17:11 #40607 by JR
Replied by JR on topic Question - Clutch?
I try not to mess to much with the clutch adjustment. Main reason is that whenever I do it seems to take me several attempts to get it just right. It might be worth your while to try a couple of times. I know the instructions say something like tighten the adjuster screw on the engine casing until resistance is felt and then back it off a 1/4 turn and tighten to locknut but it also seems that a tiny bit out makes a big difference.

Also - are you using oil with friction modifiers ? Synthetic ?

Carefull with the baby seals. Pam would'nt like it.

1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust

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18 Apr 2006 17:16 #40609 by 77_650B1
Replied by 77_650B1 on topic Question - Clutch?
Oh yeah, I know, its hard to get perfect. And I'm using straight oil, whatever she's sposed to take, dont even know right now lol.

1977 KZ650-B1
-Dual Discs
-Dyna-S
-WG Coil Mod
-Alloy Wheels

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