I need parts!!

Hi, new at the board:)

I own a KZ 750E3 or E2 dont know really.

But it has this "ticking" noise.
It's most likely the hydraulic valvelifters but I'm not 100% sure.

No the main problem is'nt finding out what is wrong (I have a good friend whos a mechanic!)

But WHERE do I find the parts necessary:dry:
Valvelifters/ all bearings etc. etc...??
I've looked trough numerous sites and all I can find is the valves themselfes.

Hope you can guide me in the righty direction!

And pardon my french if I've spealed wrongly somewere
:laugh:
By the way I live in Denmark so it would be nice if there were a supplier in Europe.
Thanks in advance /Jens

you can get part numbers from www.buykawasaki.com go to owner info then parts diagrams then get the part #s and paste them into the quick order form at www.worldofpowersports.com you'll then get prices and any supersession numbers before you have to buy them

Post edited by: jbw7300, at: 2006/04/15 06:34

There are no vallve lifters in a KZ750E, it has valves, valve spring seats, inner and outer valve springs, valve spring retainers, half moon clips (to hold the retainers on the valve, shims (to adjust clearance) on top the valves, buckets (that go over the top of the shims, retainers, and springs) and the cams ride on top of the buckets and push them down directly (thus opening the valves). The link in the previous post will take you to the place where you can find the illustrated parts pages and see for yourself.

Check the book on how to adjust the can chain.

Depending on what sort of ticking noise it is, it can sometimes be endfloat on the camshaft(s), anoying but little you can do about it. comes and goes of its own accord.

steell wrote:

There are no vallve lifters in a KZ750E, it has valves, valve spring seats, inner and outer valve springs, valve spring retainers, half moon clips (to hold the retainers on the valve, shims (to adjust clearance) on top the valves, buckets (that go over the top of the shims, retainers, and springs) and the cams ride on top of the buckets and push them down directly (thus opening the valves). The link in the previous post will take you to the place where you can find the illustrated parts pages and see for yourself.

:silly: I now know!

We mesuared the valveclearence to between 0.00 (!!!!) to 0.08mm.
According to the books (haynes)it should be around 0.08 to 0.18.... How can this be?
My mechanic measured it by the book and everything.
Haynes sugest that a smaller shim should be inserted and on it again...:blink:

It could only be that it have been adjusted before very poorly, so that the clearence on valve 4 and 8 in this case i 0.00 right??

I am SO sick of this!
:S

Nope, just normal wear, the valve lash will decrease over time, so you need to check it once in awhile.

Will the clearence DECREASE over time??
Don't it get BIGGER?

Could someone please make an:

"what to do now...-in 1.blabla 2.blabla"

That would be highly apreciated:)

By the way the haynes manuel says this:

1. Turn the crankshaft so the "T mark" lines up with the fixed line on the block.

2. Then measure the clearence noting that the "lube" should point away from the valve.

3. Turn the crank as nessesary for checking all valves.

? Whats the deal with lining the marks, when you have to turn the crank 10 times to get all lubes poiting away from the valve anyway?

Again pardon my french;)

Anyone?

Your Haynes manual explains how to rotate the crankshaft so that the LOBES on two of the intake cam shafts point away from TWO of the valves. This is done at TDC for 1/4 on the advance mechanism plate. You put a feeler gauge between the bucket and cam lobe and measure clearance. Your clearance SHOULD BE between .08 and .18mm. Since your clearance is not within spec, it means there is insufficient clearance and valves are likely being held open when they should be closed. This allows compression to escape. In any case, rotate the crank 360 degrees to once again be aligned to the TDC point and 1/4 timing mark T. Then measure the other two valve's clearances. Do the same for the exhaust cam except I think you use the 2/3 T timing mark and 3 cylinder will be at TDC. Once you have the clearances, compute the shim needed to get you in the correct clearance range. You can buy shims at www.z1enterprises.com . Then, remove your cam chain tensioner. Remove your cam shafts. Use a magnet to remove the buckets from your valve retainers. The shims are below and sitting in a depression in the top of the retainer. Reinstall the buckets and cams and remeasure clearances and repeat if any clearance is outside spec. Replace the cams CAREFULLY reading the manual to ensure they are installed correctly else you WILL bend your valves. Put the tensioner back in. Last point, the valve seat and valve face tend to wear as the bike is ridden. The seat gets deeper and the vavle stem will protrude father up toward the retainer/bucket so clearances decrease as the valve train wears. This is normal. Clearances will NOT increase. I know you are looking for help but I have essentially repeated the steps from your Haynes manual. If this manual isn't clear buy a Clymer or Kaw factory manual as I find either easier to understand.