New cam bushings and cam chain

A few quick questions. Installed my cam chain and set up the timing marks and counted off 28 and set the intake cam. Rotate the engine a few times and the mark is 2 pins off each time. I would figure that this is normal seeing that the chain is being pulled from the intake to the exhaust but I'm hungry and a bit intoxicated so I just wanted to be sure this is normal that the chain doesn't remain in the exact spot it was originaly set up on. I can spin it a few times and set the timing mark, count the pins and the 28th is still on the mark on the intake cam.

Secondly the torque of the cam cap bolts. I have a 60 INCH pound wrench and a standard Ft-# wrench. What spec should I use?

It's probably different on your bike (wait for someone with a manual for your model to chime in on the recommended torque), but the cam cap torque recommendation for the '77 KZ650 is 95-113 IN LBS. If your is similar, the 60 IN LB wrench will be light. However, using the FT LB wrench may be a problem too depending on the range of scale. This is because the accuracy of even very high quality (CDI/Snap-On)torque wrenches is approximately ± 4% clockwise ± 6% counter-clockwise of indicated value from 20% to 100% of full scale. Using a wrench set below 20% of its max scale is a gamble. So if, for example, your torque wrench goes up to 100 FT LB, 20% of that is 20 FT LB. Trying to use that wrench for a cam cap that might need 7.5 - 9 FT LB would be quite risky as there is no assurance of the wrench being accurate at that low setting. What are the minimum and maximum settings on the FT LB wrench? Ed

Read through this thread. there's some good info.
cam cap bolts

Thanks Tony, I read that post earlier but didn't see much about the cam chain so I started a new thread after a search.

As far as the torque wrench settings. The ft-lb "clicker" goes from 10 to 200 ft-lb I think, atleast I know it starts at 10. I don't trust that seeing there is prolly a large gap in the specs that low. In the Army we would set our wrench at 100 #'s, get a pipe and multiply the distance from the head to the handle twice doubling the lenth and torque it down and that would give us 200 foot pounds. Is it possible to set it @ 20 ft-lb's and divide the distance between the handle and the head being half way and it should click at 10 ft-lbs? Just a thought, maybe someone has tried it before.

I used to also kick multi million dollar firing system switch boxes to make them work thanks to lithuim grease but no one belived that worked either until it was fixed.

get an inch pound torque wrench that foot pound one will mess up your stuff bad. and your cam timing problem sounds to me like your a tooth off and have possibly miss counted by one tooth. double check it again and if you are not a big problem just take the top idler off and pull the chain away from the sprocket and move your cam accordingly.

cruspeed wrote:

As far as the torque wrench settings. The ft-lb "clicker" goes from 10 to 200 ft-lb I think, atleast I know it starts at 10.

Don't EVEN think about using it unless you want to become very familiar with Helicoils or Time-Certs. Ed

Personally, I wouldn't even consider using the big torque wrench. The bolt holes strip very easily. If you follow the method laid out by Larry C in that thread I linked you won't have a problem.

When you set your timing, then turn your engine over a few times and recheck, the chain links won't be in the same spot. At least every time I've done it and checked, it's been like that.