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Swapping Z1 engine into KZ650 chassis.
- kawasakifreak77
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& this...
I've seen plenty of KZ650's with big blocks shoved in them but I've yet to find a thread specifically detailing how they did it. I'm not too concerned with that because I'm at least decently good with a torch & welder. However, if you can direct me to a thread where someone stabs a Z1 engine in a KZ650 chassis, that would be totally awesome.
What I'm most curious about right now is whether or not the Z1's charging system make it's own power? IE, I want this bike to be bare bones, including taking out the starter & going kick only & eliminating the battery if possible. If the Z1 doesn't make it's own power, is there a charging system I can equip this motor with that does?
Thanks in advance for any help!
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- MFolks
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Some of the early bikes were phase sensitive, so carefully check the wiring. It might be worth it to go from the seperate regulator and rectifier to the integrated version used on the later models.
Alternator Testing For the Older 4’s(Z1’s,Kz 900’s, Kz1000’s,Kz1100’s and GPz1100’s).
To check to see if the alternator is working you need to follow these simple steps:
1. Fully charge the battery as this will be the power source during this test.
2. Disconnect the Regulator/Rectifier at the plug that has the six wires in it.
3. Start the engine and let it warm to operating temperature.
4. If you're worried about overheating, position a large fan for cooling the engine.
5. After the engine has reached operating temperature, have a helper assist you, and using a multi-meter, read the output at the three yellow wires (or the alternator output wires)at the disconnected connector.
6. Raise the engine speed to 4000 rpm, and see what the three YELLOW wire combinations(or any alternator output wires) are(1-3, 2-3 & 1-2). The output will be around 50 Volts A.C.(Alternating Current). BE CAREFUL, AS THERE IS A SHOCK HAZARD HERE!!
7. If any of the combinations are low or non-existent, the stator(wire windings) are bad and must be replaced.
Some of the older Z1’s and KZ900’s were phase sensitive, so check the wire colors carefully.
8. Using an OHMETER, Check the three wire combinations again, looking for a reading of 0.36 - 0.54 OHMS. If the readings are above or below, the stator may be bad and need replacement. Also check from any of the three YELLOW wires to ground, this will show if arcing took place.
9. Before ordering a new stator, check the connections from the stator as there are electrical "Bullet" connectors that may be damaged or dirty.
Inspect the wiring for signs of shorting or overheating too. www.z1enterprises.com sells replacement rubber grommets for the alternator output wiring, they get hard and could leak oil after a while.
10. Check the wiring coming out of the grommet as there have been situations where the wires were damaged causing a short(I.E. twisted together with insulation damage).
11. The sprocket cover will have to be removed to access the electrical connectors coming from the alternator, the left foot peg assembly and shifting lever will have to come off also.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- steell
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One person even managed to drop the motor down in the frame far enough to clear the tank.
Someone here collected all the pics that have been posted of KZ650/1000 bikes, but I can't remember who.
KD9JUR
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- loudhvx
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You'll also be better off with a factory electronic ignition instead of points, and definitely not a Dyna ignition. The factory ignition is more efficient especially at low RPMs ... as in starting RPMs. I have a cheap do-it-yourself substitue for the igniter that makes it even more efficient at lower RPMs.
Before you drop the battery, though, you'll want to make sure you can start the bike reliably in one kick or two. A hard to start bike will only get harder without battery.
And, finally, the battery must be replaced by a capacitor. You'll want a 6000 to 12000 uF, 50v, capacitor.
Page 4 of this thread shows my wiring diagram for my battery-less bike.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...mit=20&limitstart=60
It would not be too hard to draw up a bare bones diagram for you if you need one when the time comes.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- lobstermobster
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1981 kz650 w/ flux capacitor
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- Mcdroid
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- Gone Kwackers
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Michael
Victoria, Texas
1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A
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- Injected
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Most of those would be Ebay purchases.
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- porchev914
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- Whats that? Half of my swingarm is missing?!?!?
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FRANKEN Z!
1978 KZ1000 A2A with 08'Speed Triple SSSA and '06 GSXR1000 front end
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- hocbj23
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- kawasakifreak77
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If you want to make run strong without a battery the best way to go is with a magneto, which never came as a stock item from Kawasaki... the smallest one's out there are the Hunt or ARD, the next biggest one is the Mallaroy Sprint then the Vertex stuff, but it is very large.
Most of those would be Ebay purchases.
I like the look of this magneto business...
...but will it power lights? Only thing I'm gonna run is a standard headlight, tail & brake light.
I'm assuming a mag would be hotter than a dyna S & green coils? I already have the green coils.
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- loudhvx
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For a regular compression bike, the kawasaki electronic ignition will likely have more duration, which will likely provide a smoother idle. Since you still need the alternator for lights, you might as well run the ignition off the alternator instead of adding a big magneto assembly. Magnetos are cool, but they're basically a novelty at this point.
If you are going to run super high compression, an MSD would be more effective, probably, than a magneto.
As I said earlier, you probably don't want a Dyna S for a battery-less bike. A Kawasaki electronic ignition from the early 1980's is what you want, with Dyna 2.2 ohm coils. And, the module you want to run it with is this HEI version:
home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/Ignition/GPZgmHEImod.html
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- kawasakifreak77
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Might as well just do what you're saying. I've heard the Dyna sucks more juice than the factory kawi iggy & that's why it'd be better to run without a battery I'm assuming.
The motor, for the most part, is stock.
Thanks for the link & all the info!
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