Valve Adjustment Questions

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24 Aug 2010 13:41 #393520 by nicksorg
Valve Adjustment Questions was created by nicksorg
On my 82 GPz750, I pulled the valve cover and checked valve clearances:

Intake:

#1 = .004
#2 = .012
#3 = .009
#4 = .008

Exhaust:

#1 = .005
#2 = .005
#3 = .004
#4 = .004

Looks like Exhaust are in spec, while Intake #2,3,4 are out of spec range of .003 - .007. When I shim them, is it best to do all of them to bring them to a common clearance of say .005?
Thanks
Nick

1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2

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24 Aug 2010 14:39 #393525 by dshelly
Replied by dshelly on topic Valve Adjustment Questions
As long as you get them in spec. That's all that matters.

Occupation:Machinist 25+ exp.
'77 Kz1000B1
'78 Kz1000A2
'76 Kz900LTD

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  • mark1122
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24 Aug 2010 14:59 #393526 by mark1122
Replied by mark1122 on topic Valve Adjustment Questions
dshelly wrote:

As long as you get them in spec. That's all that matters.


X2

keep in mind that the clearance gets smaller as it wears. so when choosing a shim a little over is better than a little under, your target #.
B)

76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.

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27 Aug 2010 06:00 #394158 by nicksorg
Replied by nicksorg on topic Valve Adjustment Questions
Thanks guys. I have a question about measuring. I measured intake 2 again and I'm wondering if I'm doing it correctly. If I put .007 feeler in it has very slight initial resistance and I'm able to pull it back and forth.

If I put .009 feeler, it stops when it hits the lobe, but I'm able to push it in and move it back and forth. I don't want to split hairs, but just want to get an accurate measurment and do it correctly.
Thanks
Nick

1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2

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  • Motor Head
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27 Aug 2010 06:41 #394169 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic Valve Adjustment Questions
Sorry but you shouldn't be "Pushing" it in past the lobe. Any measurement you make, whether a feeler gauge or micrometer/ caliper/ snap gauge etc, it is all in the "feel" and takes a bit of practice to know when the correct measurement has been obtained. You can force a bigger feeler gauge in past the lobe, slightly forcing down the valve spring, this is not what you want to do. The gauge should meet even resistance, "sliding" in and out of the clearance smoothly with a slight resistance, no pushing/ pulling. There is available a "GO-NO" gauge where the tool will have a minimum and maximum on the same blade, it should "GO" then stop on the "NO" part. This is a easy way to tell if your right on the setting.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
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27 Aug 2010 07:54 - 27 Aug 2010 08:41 #394209 by nicksorg
Replied by nicksorg on topic Valve Adjustment Questions
Thanks MH. I've used feeler gauges on points, etc before, but this is the first time I've measured the valve clearance. Unless I'm mistaken, worst case I can start with the feeler gauge of the high number of the spec (in my case .007). If it's under that, then I'm good...
Nick

1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
Last edit: 27 Aug 2010 08:41 by nicksorg.

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28 Aug 2010 07:55 #394505 by nicksorg
Replied by nicksorg on topic Valve Adjustment Questions
I guess I was a little too agressive with my feeler gauge initially. I checked clearances today, and while there are a couple at the upper end of the limit, they all appear to be in spec.

I'm going to clean carbs again today, new jets, and clean all the connectors on the electrical.
Thanks again.
Nick

1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2

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