3000 miles without a camshaft tensioner !

Dear doctors ,

Today when reinstalling the valve cover on my GPZ 750 '82, i needed to reset the camshaft tensioner at TDC like people told me. I have the cross wedge automatic tensioner. When i have unscrewed the big bolt ... sh!t no spring and no push rod came out! I don't know what PO did but hell I've ridden 3000 miles without a functional tensioner.

So i've put a spring and push rod from my KZ550 '83 and it run like crap and i could hear a big chain rattle then the engine died. Removed the spring and push rod ... ran great ... wtf is going on ? Maybe thats why PO removed it but still i can't understand why its like that.

Is that dangerous?


Thank you,

laurent

To clear the confusion and to help understanding what is missing...


Here's a picture of the FSM



Push Rod Stop and Spring are missing (#7 & #

Can i continue to run like this?

regards,
laurent

laurent:

I cannot explain why the chain noise with the tensioner and quiet without the tensioner. Seems that it would be just the opposite.

I have all the internal parts off a tensioner that was on my '82 KZ650. You can have them if you want. Somebody (names will not be provided), got over-energized when tightening the screw-on cap that holds the spring and twisted it off.

maybe because the KZ750 cross wedge tension is not part swappable between my KZ550 ... i had to put a lot of force to screw the bolt with the spring. The push rod stop was sticking 10mm outside like it's suppose to be... maybe too much tension on the tensioner which ate all the slack... maybe the chain was too tight after that, who knows!

The APE manual tensioner scares me.... i don't know when the chain is slack or too tight... i'm not to good at guessing for that and I've not earned my KZ doctor status yet :lol:

some are able to tell just by hearing how the cam chain move if it's too tight or slack...


EDIT:

I have all the internal parts off a tensioner that was on my '82 KZ650. You can have them if you want.

I would like to but i'm not even sure it's compatible. My kz550 have the same type of tensioner but different shape...and the cap bolt is longer.

I guess everyone change for manual tensioner but i'm unsure ... to forget to readjust the tension could be a costly mistake with the manual tensioner !

Thanks for your support WABBMW!

regards,
laurent

Pull your cams and take a look at your guides. When I pulled my engine apart, I found this:





The front guides are known to wear through where the block meets the case. If they're not replaced, the cam chain may eventually saw it's way through the case. You can remove that guide without pulling the head, and you can inspect the rear guide to make sure it moves okay. When you're sure all that's good, retime your cams make sure your cross-wedge tensioner is deburred and greased and works like it's supposed to... or just put a manual tensioner on there.

You change your own oil periodically, right?
You clean, lube, and adjust your drive chain?
It's just one more maintenance item. The weird thing about it is that you do it by feel.
It's only intimidating until you do it the first time, then you're like, "Oh, okay, that's what they were talking about."

Yes, kinda like sex.

Pull your cams and take a look at your guides. When I pulled my engine apart, I found this:

How many miles your bike had when you pulled it?

This is not normal unless you had a lot of miles.

Even my KZ550 with nearly 30 000 miles don't have that much wear on the guides.

i've checked quickly the tentioner guide with a flashlight yesterday when i checked the valve clearance... looked good anyway...

i will remove the tention assembly and inspect it.

Pull your cams and take a look at your guides.

You can remove that guide without pulling the head, and you can inspect the rear guide to make sure it moves okay. When you're sure all that's good, retime your cams...

This ain't easy for me this is my daily commuter and sometime you touch something and you end up with more problems. At least, winter is my break for that kind of thing.


regards,
laurent

Tomorrow i will switch the tensioner assembly with my KZ550. Do you think it will fit ? I even have a new gasket lying somewhere for the kz550 tensioner.

thank you,
laurent

Yeah, definitely remove the tensioner and inspect inside and out. I don't think I would play around with the 550 tensioner unless it looks identical to the 750 one. I'd look for a direct replacement for the 750 tensioner on ebay, or get an upgrade. IMO, the stock one is good for stok motors as long as it's maintained and no helps it break.

The damage Guitargeek posted shows the type of damage that can happen if the valve cover is pressed down into place while the chain is tensioned.

No idea how many miles my motor had on it when I tore it down, maybe 50k?

OMG, just took off the tensioner... The Previous Owner® just converted it to a manual tensioner!!!!

The pushrod is held with the (self-made) screw on its side so when the travel limit screw is tighten it will lock the pushrod in place and cannot move wow!

Also, maybe he did this because he broke half the tensioner .The main bolt where it use to have the push rod stop has been over-torqued and most of it got snapped.

I guess to cheap to buy APE.

I will try to readjust the PO made chain tensioner and when i will receive the original complete tensioner i will switch them.

jeez what else he did to the engine... so wonderful..too many surprises are waiting to be discovered ! Can't wait!!!! :dry:

regards,
laurent