1979 kz1000 starting problems

I guess i'll be posting alot on here. hopefully less and less as time goes on and i figure my stuff out. I have 2 1979 kz1000's one standard with shaft dive and one classic.

The classic had no spark when i got her. brand new coils, wires and plugs. the nice ngk racing setup. Finally found a wire that had popped out. Got spark life is good. Couldnt get her to start still plugs seemed dry, like fluid wasnt getting through the carbs to engine. pulled plugs and added some starter fluid, tried it once or twice to no avail and being 1AM i called it a night. by the way running the kerker exhaust with the big mikuni carbs and individual intake setup. came back today, made sure fuel lines werent kinked, and went to start her. got about 10-15 seconds of attempt to turn over and come to life and then nothing, figured it the battery didnt have enough juice to turn her over but being i still had power i tried to kick it over. almost broke my leg.....

there is absolutely no movement in the kick starter. in neutral if clutch is out i cant move it a damn inch. if the clutch is in, the kick start moves freely. if i shift it to first with the clutch in i can kick it and the bike moves forward like the trans isnt completly disengaged, but again when i let the clutch out i just cant get any movement. i tried kicking it over right when i bought her and didnt have much trouble but now its almost as if its locked in place when the clutch is out. tried moving it around the shop, changing gears etc in hopes something might have just clicked the wrong way but nothing. any ideas?

Have you adjusted the clutch per the shop manual?

Some information regarding clutch and clutch cable replacement:

Kawasaki Clutch Replacement. (Taken From The Internet)

It is very simple to find out what you require. I thought I needed a clutch also, but it only wound up requiring clutch springs. Those are MUCH cheaper than a clutch. First of all Z1E can get you what ever you require.

If your springs are more than 10 years old, than it is almost for sure that they will be. Mine were so bad that when I shifted into second and third and punched it, the engine revved to about 10K until it heated up enough to displace the oil and catch. The springs are only about $15-$20 for the set, and are very simple to change.

The clutch pack is on the other hand more costly. First of all you will require a clutch cover gasket. That you know that you will require for sure. If you have Phillips head screws on the clutch cover, you should also replace those also with Allen head bolts because you are guaranteed to bugger up some of the Phillips heads. If you have Allen’s already you are set.I believe Z1 sells the Allen head SS bolts.

1) Remove clutch cover.

2) Remove 5 bolts holding clutch springs.

3) slide out friction plates and steel plates.

4) Wipe off friction plates and measure each one in a couple of spots to see if they are in spec. Most likely you will find out that they are well in spec and they will just require de-glazing.

5) If plates are under spec than just order the entire APE kit with plates and springs from Z1E for about $100.

6) if plates are in spec than just order the springs.

7) very carefully remove old gasket from both surfaces using a either a gasket scraper or a single edge razor blade(I like using a sharpened piece of Lexan or Plexi-glass as a scraper).


if old clutch is GOOD than de-glaze with a plastic scrubbing pad (Scotchbrite pad).Do this in a soapy water solution using a strong dish washing soap solution. Make sure that you de-glaze both the friction plates and steel plates. Another method would be to use a random orbit sander, but again, the clutch disc’s and steel plates would need cleaning before sanding and afterwards.

9) allow to dry

10) reassemble everything, make sure you leave gasket dry.

If you require the clutch than this is what you will require.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1490

If your plates are good than you will require this.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319

Before sure you will require this.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2685 .



And:

Clutch Cable Replacement On some Kawasaki Motorcycles



1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8.While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9.Check the lockwasher for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10.Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

Is the bike not starting or the kick starter your issue? :laugh:

Anywho, the kickstarter is likely an adjsutment, and with the bike on the sidestand, you can remove the right side clutch cover without fear of oil spilling out, and make any changes you need to.

Now, for the starting.
You need good compression for one thing, better than 100psi to get runin, and a 10% difference between any cylinders is no good, so start with that.

Next is nice snappy fat blue spark, which you say you have - good.

Then comes the carburetion. To get the engine to start, it needs a nice rich charge to be drawn in, so pull the choke full, and DONT open the throttle. This defeats the enrichener circuit. Make sure that the idle control knob has been turned in some (to increase idle), and the mixture screws are at least 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated.

Make sure that the fuel levels in the carburetors are correct using the clear tube method.
Make sure that you havnt accidentally reversed the spark wires - been there done that, just reverse them 1-2, 3-4 and see if that does it.
Try spraying starter fluid all over the air filter and crank her over.
You can use a car battery to attempt starting, thus providing a nice ample power source for the starter.

If the plugs are completely dry after several cranks, your probly not getting enough fuel to the cylinders. If theyre wet, then too much.

GL!

if you try to jump start the bike from a car, make sure the car is not running while jump starting. I damn near fried up a perfect harness doing that..

Put the bike in neutral and try to kick it. The clutch is going to drag when it's in gear and stone cold.

Also that's a J model clutch pack in that link. Wrong parts for your bike. Leave the clutch cover on the bike for now and get the batter charged up properly.

Pull off the K&N filters and give each carb a little shot of Wd40 in the bellmouth. Then give the bike full choke and see if it will fire.

WD is good starting fluid. It won't dry down the cylinders like ether does.

Kitten Tooth wrote:

if you try to jump start the bike from a car, make sure the car is not running while jump starting. I damn near fried up a perfect harness doing that..

Yeah... a car battery. not a car. :laugh:

dont ever put ether straight into cylinder via plug hole....i had a buddy grenade a klr650 motor doing that....