Stock cam chain adjuster (Adjustment)

I believe its time to take up some slack in my 77 KZ1000's cam chain. The noise is getting a little aggravating. The chain tensioner is stock, I haven't splurged on a manual one yet. Anyhow, I have never done this as this is my first big 4 bike, but I think I understand what to do, someone please just correct me if I'm wrong. Turn crank clockwise (facing the timing cover) until TDC, back off the locknut on the tensioner bolt, then back the bolt out to let the spring adjust, and tighten the bolt and locknut back up.... is this correct?

Maybe the 77 tensioner is different,but on the later models(such as my 82) no such thing as adjusting the tensioner.It self adjusts according to timing chain wear.U MUST reset it if u take it off but otherwise it should maintain tension all by its little self.If u got noises,and the tensioner is stock I would suspect u need to get a new one OR replace the timing chain.Again,these comments are made subject to no difference in adjuster function between ur bike and a later model.Good luck.bj

The stock cam chain tensioner on a 77 KZ1000 is adjusted as he described. You should turn the motor over a couple of times with the 17mm nut under the points cover. Do not turn it with the smaller one, it will snap off. Stop on TDC for either pair of cylinders. Then loosen the locknut on the tensioner bolt, back out the bolt a few turns, then tighten both of them back up. Don't overdo it on the bolt.

Well, I went ahead and did it, and it made no difference in my chain noise issue.
Just what I wanted, more money, and more work to do!

how many miles on motor? if it has under like 25k , i would buy an APE manual adjuster and install it....i would also pull valve cover to be able to peer in with a flashlite and confirm positive engagement of adjuster to guide/roller and guide/roller to chain......

the motor has a little over 20k on it. I will
definetely be installing an APE tensioner before I go in balls deep and get a new chain and all the other acomplices. I'll check all that stuff out at the same time because judging by the general lack of maintanence the bike got from its previous owner, and the way it still runs a bit rough at low RPM, even a after a set of new dyna coils, dyna ignition, carb rebuild, sync, rejet, 4-1 exhaust, etc., it almost definetely would benefit from a valve adjustment. I just want to be the man that she always deserved! :laugh:

If you are going to buy a manual adjuster, check out the one on ebay. They are $15 cheaper than APE ,great quality and you get a new gasket and instructions with it . I have one on my bike and it works great!

20,000 miles you don't need a chain and the manual adjuster on the 77 works just fine. It's possible the rubber centers of your cam idler sprockets have deteriorated. I think Jeff at Z1 or Ape sells better sprockets.

It was kinda strange though, when I backed out the bolt, it didn't seem like the pushrod moved at all. I didn't hear anything (which I don't know if you normally would) and I took the bolt all the way out and put a flashlight up to the bolt hole, and the part of the pushrod i could see was shiny like it was the area that the bolt was tightened against. So I don't know if it was already doing all it can do, or if it's possible for the spring and/or pushrod to get seized in their housing? If I take the assembly off and this is the case.... :dry: (which would be too simple of a solution to be true) how do you reset it?

The procedure described for adjusting auto tensioner at TDC is correct.

Where valve clearance and compression are not suspect, and with good properly timed spark, imo leaves carbs as primary suspect.

Forgive me for suggesting that carb pilot circuits remain suspect, as does proper sync, both of which are critical to smooth steady idle.

Good Fortune!

I definetely think that the valve clearance a strong suspect. I just haven't buckled down yet
to the point of spending the money on the tool & then
having to find the correct shims...and waiting for them.
I think I need to buy another bike so that I can ride that one while I work on this one...:woohoo:

That is a process which should be performed at a minimum of every 5000 Mi (8000kM). The tool costs about $40 or so. I don't even have one of those tools i just took an old screw driver and ground it to shape.