Clutch problem 1977 KZ1000

Hi guys!

I am having an issues with my clutch on my 1977 KZ1000 and I am trying to find some more information. Basically I was ridding a few days ago and my clutch cable started to feel loose like all the way slack. I tightened up the cable all the way with the adjustment at the lever and the adjustment in the middle of the cable. Still felt all the way slack. I then screwed in the adjuster on the side cover. Now the lever wont wont budge and the clutch is still engaged (cant roll the bike in gear). I have pulled out the clutch push rod and it looks pretty straight. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated

loosen it back up and start with bottem/clutch cover adjustment,then at the bar center adjustment last.thats how i do it anyway

Sounds like you could have broken a clutch plate or the clutch pusher has bound up. I would pull clutch cover and check plates and pusher. While you have the metal plates out a good glass beading will make them like new!!

Yup, sounds like a broken plate.

Kawasaki Clutch Replacement. (Taken From The Internet)

It is very simple to find out what you require. I thought I needed a clutch also, but it only wound up requiring clutch springs. Those are MUCH cheaper than a clutch. First of all Z1E can get you what ever you require.

If your springs are more than 10 years old, than it is almost for sure that they will be. Mine were so bad that when I shifted into second and third and punched it, the engine revved to about 10K until it heated up enough to displace the oil and catch. The springs are only about $15-$20 for the set, and are very simple to change.

The clutch pack is on the other hand more costly. First of all you will require a clutch cover gasket. That you know that you will require for sure. If you have Phillips head screws on the clutch cover, you should also replace those also with Allen head bolts because you are guaranteed to bugger up some of the Phillips heads. If you have Allen’s already you are set.

1) Remove clutch cover.

2) Remove 5 bolts holding clutch springs.

3) slide out friction plates and steel plates.

4) Wipe off friction plates and measure each one in a couple of spots to see if they are in spec. Most likely you will find out that they are well in spec and they will just require de-glazing.

5) If plates are under spec than just order the entire APE kit with plates and springs from Z1E for about $100.

6) if plates are in spec than just order the springs.

7) very carefully remove old gasket from both surfaces using a either a gasket scraper or a single edge razor blade(I like using a sharpened piece of Lexan or Plexi-glass as a scraper).


if old clutch is GOOD than de-glaze with a plastic scrubbing pad (Scotchbrite pad).Do this in a soapy water solution using a strong dish washing soap solution. Make sure that you de-glaze both the friction plates and steel plates. Another method would be to use a random orbit sander, but again, the clutch disc’s and steel plates would need cleaning before sanding and afterwards.

9) allow to dry

10) reassemble everything, make sure you leave gasket dry.

If you require the clutch than this is what you will require.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1490

If your plates are good than you will require this.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319

Before sure you will require this.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2685 .

I am running a lot of horse power on my bike and I have not worn out the stock clutch.