KZ1300 Hard to turn over...?

Well, I got this KZ1300 last fall, but it stopped running since. The current issue I'm working on is the fact that it just doesn't want to turn over. I pull the spark plugs and it turns freely, but not very quickly at all... Put them back in and I'm lucky to get a couple turns out of it per second. Does not matter the condition of the battery. It does seem to get worse over time... any ideas?

Some battery info...

Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 13.4 V for gelled electrolyte; 13.5 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 13.8 V for flooded cells
1.All voltages are at 20 °C (68 °F), and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes.
2.Float voltage recommendations vary, according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
3.Precise (±0.05 V) float voltage is critical to longevity; insufficient (sulfation) is almost as bad as excessive (corrosion and electrolyte loss)
Typical (daily) charging: 14.2 V to 14.5 V (depending on manufacturer's recommendation)
Equalization charging (for flooded lead acids): 15 V for no more than 2 hours. Battery temperature must be monitored.
Gassing threshold: 14.4 V
After full charge, terminal voltage drops quickly to 13.2 V and then slowly to 12.6 V.

Remember, 12V is not really good at all, your looking for 12.6, it makes a BIG Difference.

Remove the starter itself. Open it up and clean it out real good. Check commutor, brushes, coils, etc. Re-assemble. Its pretty easy, and doesnt take too long.
And it will make a big difference in the cranking power.

Pull off and clean all the connections to the starter/solenoid, battery and all the grounds.
Make sure you have a good clean ground to the engine, the frame, and the wiring harnes ground wire.

GL!

Thanks, all good info!
I'm certain it's not the battery, I've tried a brand new one with no difference at all. Also swapped out a known good batt., same story!

I'm going to try a good clean and recondition like you say.

Still open to more ideas!

Thanks again!

The "automatic" cam chain tensioners on that bike are a known weak point.Before I did more tinkering,I would replace the unit with an APE manual one-same one used for kz1100s and the J motor KZ 1000s.DOnt know if it will improve cranking,but might save the engine when u do get it running.bj

hocbj23 wrote:

The "automatic" cam chain tensioners on that bike are a known weak point.Before I did more tinkering,I would replace the unit with an APE manual one-same one used for kz1100s and the J motor KZ 1000s.DOnt know if it will improve cranking,but might save the engine when u do get it running.bj

.

It is not the same one as the KZ1000s it is the same one as the ZX11 and zx12.

Starter Solenoid Checkout

Some simple steps to determine what is working and what's not:

1.Fully charge and test the battery(most bike shops can load test the battery, and then use a floating ball hydrometer to check specific gravity in the charged cells).

2.Clean all battery terminals of corrosion.

3.Tighten all starting related connections(Positive RED(+) battery terminal, Negative BLACK(-)terminal) and from the terminal to the engine case. All connections must be clean and tight.

4.Clean the cable from the starter solenoid to the starter motor.

5.Clean and check the "bullet connectors" going to the coil side of the starter solenoid.

6.Try again to start the bike, keep in mind some Kawasaki’s have a clutch interlock to prevent cranking the engine while it’s in gear, so the clutch lever must be squeezed.

7.If no luck, go to step #8

8.Wearing eye protection, bridge with pliers or a screwdriver the two heavy duty(large)terminals on the solenoid. If the bike cranks, your solenoid may be bad.

9. If the starter won’t turn over, one of several things has happened; The starter motor has seized due to brushes binding up, lack of lubrication in the bushings of the motor, the battery is weak , the engine has seized or it could be a combination of any of the above. Some websites for starter motor rebuild kits are:

A. www.mawonline.com/newsite/rick_s_motorsp...-starter_brushes.htm

B. www.cyclewareables.com/pages/street_star...kits/startmtrkit.htm


10.The dealer may want $$$ for a new solenoid, but take your old one along and visit the nearest riding lawn mower shop. They have solenoids for about $15 that with a little work will fit. Be aware that the new solenoid from the lawn mower shop may require a ground wire for it to work.

11. I’d recommend upgrading from the existing battery cables to at least 6 gauge welding cables.
They are available in two colors(RED and BLACK) have more flexibility due to being constructed with finer conductors, and will fit in tighter areas.

12. The welding cable is sold by the foot, so take careful measurements or bring your old cables along. Most battery shops might be able to supply the cable too, so call to find out. The battery shop should be able to crimp/swage on the end of the welding cable the terminal ends or lugs using either a dedicated crimping machine or a tool that looks like a bolt cutter that has special dies to terminate the cable.

If the battery is good, I would guess:

starter

starter relay

starter wiring

connections to starter