KZ 1100 Won't start... except rarely

I was riding my 1982 KZ1100 (35k miles, 16k of those mine) regularly and enjoying it greatly until November. One day after Thanksgiving, I rode to town and back, about 30 miles total, parked as usual, and was unable to start the bike the next morning.

In my sporadic efforts to get it going over the past few months, I have had it start up from cold exactly twice. Each of those two times it then ran normally, and I was able to make a 12-mile round-trip for gasoline and a shakedown run. The bike ran exactly as it should. It was a completely normal ride, with nary a hiccup.

The second time this happened was a few days ago, right after I had replaced the spark plugs, re-secured the spark plug wires, checked and cleaned the air filter element, and drained the carburetor bowls. Since then, I have also checked both ignition coils and the secondary leads with an ohmmeter, and they are well within spec.

In the fire triangle of needs for combustion, I'm pretty sure fuel is moving through the system as it's supposed to, and nothing is blocking the air intake, so that seems to leave me with spark. If it's not the ignition coils or the plugs, what remaining culprits can I look for?

Otakar is better on the 1100 than me but I would suggest making sure all your ground wires are clean and rust free,run the 1100 shop manual tests on ur regulator/rectifier and ur ICIgniter (if u have one).Have u pulled ur petcock and insured its filter isnt all clogged up with goop?Just suggestions.bj

I'm suspecting the IC Igniter as possibly failing intermittently. This electronic package actually gives the ignition coils their grounds so they produce a spark.

If that's not it, try this test:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(under a right side CD sized cover) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of X 100 check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.

Kawasaki part # 59026-1133 is the pick up coil you might need. They list for $139.05 but if you become a forum member at www.kawasakimotorcycle.org the price is $118.19

I would also check the valve clearances. I had an 85 Ninja that got to where the only way to start it was to push start it. Once started it would run fine. Turns out the valves had no clearance and I was loosing compression. Adjusted the valves and it was back to normal.

One other quick note.Just because two connectors in the system are pushed together,dont assume they are making contact.My odometer was working intermittently and drove me nuts until one day I opened the conector for the umpteenth time and noted one of the spade connectors was backed partially out of its holder.I pushed the wire up in the holder,filled the space with super glue,plugged everything back up and voila,odometer worked great.Just an FYI.bj

This has all been helpful advice, in the sense that it gave me more things to eliminate, and more to think about.

I did inspect the (very clean) fuel screen on the fuel tap assembly, and I have now also checked the resistance of the pickup coil (right in the center of the tolerance range) and the vacuum reed valve (working correctly). I've also been inspecting and re-connecting all the electrical bits when I run across them.

I'm going to check the valve clearances next, a task I've never attempted, but this one has been full of firsts. I do appreciate all the suggestions. I'll post anything I find out.

Many thanks,
RB

rbdancer wrote:

...1982 KZ1100...unable to start the bike the next morning...right after...I drained the carburetor bowls...pretty sure fuel is moving through the system as it's supposed to....

Where carbs have been drained, before attempting to start the engine, petcock should be turned to PRI for a few moments (up to 30 seconds, maybe longer) in order to allow the dry empty carb float bowls to fill.

Assure kill switch in RUN position, apply full choke, DON'T TOUCH THROTTLE, and then attempt to start engine. Remember to not touch the throttle while cranking.

Good Fortune!

Definitely check those valve clearances, I bought the same bike 2 weeks ago and it had sent a valve shim through the front of the head. Do a before and after compression test for the knowledge that you have a good mechanical source of vacuum, check those carb manifold boots closely when running do the spray test all around them.
As far as not starting, check your voltage reaching the coils while cranking, and make sure that Ignition switch is not a bad connection/ high resistance problem. Moisture can get into the contacts over the years.
Have you ever fully cleaned the carbs out? Or kitted them? If not this way over due.

So it looks like the valves are indeed the culprit. Only three of the eight valves are anywhere close to having enough clearance. Now I guess I need to buy a micrometer, learn about replacing valve shims, and hope the Santa Fe Motor Sports dealer carries the shims.

It looks from my Clymer manual that I might also need a special Kawasaki valve lifter holding tool. If the shop doesn't carry that, is there a workaround for holding the lifter in place while replacing the shim?

BTW, I did a complete tear-down and cleaning of the carburetors about 2,500 miles ago, and installed new-old-stock carb boots at that time. That's the one part of the system I feel pretty good about. I appreciate the heads-up, though.

Thanks to all,
RB

Feeler gauges, and a cheap set of digital calipers, for the numbers. K&L Supply make a great shim starter pack and Motion pro the tool for the cam buckets. K$L's kit less than $10, Tool again less than $10, Harbor Freight for the Calipers/ feeler gauges, and I cut my own gaskets.
Don't forget to Sync those carbs when done, there are some how to make a sync tool in this forum, including a write up I did.

rbdancer wrote:

So it looks like the valves are indeed the culprit. Only three of the eight valves are anywhere close to having enough clearance. Now I guess I need to buy a micrometer, learn about replacing valve shims, and hope the Santa Fe Motor Sports dealer carries the shims.

It looks from my Clymer manual that I might also need a special Kawasaki valve lifter holding tool. If the shop doesn't carry that, is there a workaround for holding the lifter in place while replacing the shim?
....

For helpful articles on setting valve clearances with the Motion Pro tool ---

Click on the Search Forum box (see image below);

Type in batwing

Click on Go

Z1E carries shims.

Z1E also carries the Motion Pro tool and Factory tool:
Click > Motion Pro tool at Z1E
Click > Factory tool at Z1E

KZ over bucket shims are 29mm diameter.

KZ under bucket shims are 13mm diameter.

Usually shim size is marked on the shim itself, on the bottom side next to the bucket where it's protected from being rubbed off by the cam lobe.

Where shim size is illegible, a micrometer or decent caliper may be used to determine thickness of the shim.

As known, shim sizes are produced in increments of .05mm from 2.00mm through 3.15mm.

KZ large fours with over-bucket shims generally have FSM clearance specs of .05mm~.10mm on all valves, both intake and exhaust. Some knowledgeable folks allow up to .15mm clearance for exhaust valves.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enlarge view.]

You have the EXACT same bike I accidently baught on E-bay.I too rode it 12.5 miles from where it was unloaded off the semi to home.Upon trying to start it again,it would crank but not fire.It turns out that somewhere along the line,the fuse block was replaced with some sort of plastic/car fuse block,and most of the wires were loose/disconnected.AND the harness was messed up from the fairing and trunk wiring adaption.AND the left control pin connector was chopped out and replaced with all white jumper wires.I'm just glad I made it home!!!I am now in the process of removing the fairing,trunk and side bags,and reconverting it to a straight,naked KZ.