TOPIC:

How can I be so neglectful as to forget to mention. Replace the springs about every five or so years with something like EBC springs. They are about 15+ % stronger than stock and you can get them at Z1E for about $13. They are the first thing to go bad in the clutch. The EBC springs will do the job for most all bikes and they will not make your left forearm look like Popeye's

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319

z1kzonly wrote:

Glass bead them all, metal and fiber!
Put them back together!
Twist it up and hole shot it!

For maximum effect be very careful not to clean any of the media off. DISCLAIMER: perform at your own risk. Might as well not bother in putting any oil in the bike either. Why?, because it won't make any difference.

Otakar, I wish I had read your post about refurbishing clutch before.
After I rebuild my engine, the clutch started to slip.
I didnt rebuild the clutch at that time because it was ok before disassembly.
Never mind, I decided to order a new OEM friction plates and steel plates as well as new springs. When I pull out the clutch friction plates I saw that they are not
worn at all. They were the same thickness as the new plates. Only the springs were a lot shorter than new ones, about 1mm. No matter what, I decided to replace
all new parts. When I assembled clutch it started to slip again until it warms up.
Where did I go wrong?
When I assembled new parts, friction plates and steel plates just anointed with oil, I didnt kept them all day soaked in oil and I didnt cleaned them with scotch brite because they were new.
Now I ordered a replacement springs, Vesrah, that are 10% stronger than the oem ones so I will try with them.

When I reassembled my refurbished clutch, I did not soak it aether. Not at all, I just put it together dry. What oil are you using in the bike? Improper oil can also make a clutch slip or even ruin a clutch. Many oils today have some Molybdenum in them to replace the Zinc that has been removed because of the catalytic converters on cars. Molybdenum will ruin a wet clutch in a matter of minutes. Graphite will also. I would refurbish your old clutch (because it is now "seasoned" and install a set of better after-market springs that have at least 50Lbs. of tension. I know EBC springs do and I believe the Vesrah springs do also.

I use Motul 3000 20w-50 mineral oil. This is hardly felt
slipping. I think I will fix that with heavy duty springs.

That looks like good oil. I looked it up on the web. Try to go with a lighter oil like 10w-40 The heavier the oil the more the slippage. I run Rotella-T 10W-30 thinned out with 20% Rislone #4401 oil additive with ZDDP in my GPz1150. The Rislone is just an added benefit to help keep the engine clean.

www.barsproducts.com/4401.htm

otakar wrote:

How can I be so neglectful as to forget to mention. Replace the springs about every five or so years with something like EBC springs. They are about 15+ % stronger than stock and you can get them at Z1E for about $13. They are the first thing to go bad in the clutch.

+1 Way back when my bike had about 35k on it, the clutch started to slip. It was the springs. The plates measured almost like new thickness. Makes me wonder why they can't make better springs....

It's not that they can't make better springs, Springs just get tired when they are under constant load. Most people do not realize how bad their valve springs are until they accidentally over rev once or twice on an old engine. You can run a new engine at red line all day long and not much will happen. You do that to an engine that has some years on it especially one that has sat for a while and you will see how fast you will bend valves because of valve float due to week springs.

On a clutch where springs are less than $20 including postage and the gasket is only a few bucks also, I wouldn't care if I had to do it every two years.

Just wanted to dig this one back up as I've started examining my clutch.

With over 45k on it (assuming it hasn't been changed out) the friction discs are still at about 3.7-3.8mm on all measurements (minimum according to Clymer is 3.5mm) so they don't need to be replaced.

My springs are 2-3mm too short (for some reason the Clymer has a length measurement for the 900's but the 1000's have to be load tested?).

Anyways, since the plates all check out and there is no warping (just a little glazing/burning from slipping) all I need is a gasket and a set of springs.

I'm going to use this method to deglaze the discs, the friction discs are soaking as we speak.

Thanks, Otakar!

So are the EBC springs the same as the ones that you have the link for at Z1E? I was looking at going with the EBC springs just was wanting to get some more info before I pulled the trigger.

Based on the Z1E part number, I don't think those are from EBC. They start with KL which is another aftermarket supplier, maybe K&L?

Thanks, Now I know what direction to go.