Clutch replacement

I have been going through the old girl and I thought while I was in there I would go ahead and replace the friction plates and clutch springs. Original ones from 1982. I was thinking about putting the APE clutch kit in there from Z1-enterprise. Is there a problem with doing that? Should I just stick with OEM type plates and new springs?
My riding style is mainly around town and a little bit of highway. No hard racing or anything like that.

thanks,

max

Not sure of the Ape kit, but some aftermarket kits will make the squeeze on the clutch lever harder.
I had a Cir Cycle clutch kit in my bike, and the pull on the lever was getting too hard. My hand would start to hurt after about an hour.

If you're not using the bike on the racetrack stick with OEM. Heavy duty springs will wear out your hand and the clutch cable. Ed

I was wondering the same thing about the APE clutch assembly.
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...VIP:watchlink:top:en

I'll let you know about the APE, one is going in my 810 when its done. I got the needle bearing pusher too though, supposed to make ti easier to engage.

Our clutch comes with an extra plat which provides approx 14% more clutch contact area. It also has heavied duty springs.

With the extra contact area, most mildly built street bikes don't need to use the springs and can just install the clutch with their oem springs. In that cast you will have a much stronger clutch with no increase in lever pressure.

If you have 9 second horsepower. put the springs in.

If you use heavier springs with any clutch in the KZ, put our needle bearing pusher in it. Otherwise you run the risk of welding the clutch pushrod shaft to the ball.

thanks Jay for the information.