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What replacement clutches do you guys like?
- db4570
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I am looking for something very reliable and smooth, at least as good as OEM. I'm not going to race or otherwise abuse this bike, but I still want something very reliable and rugged.
What clutches do you guys recommend? The OEM parts start getting really expensive. Is there an aftermarket one known for excellent quality that might still be less expensive than getting all the OEM pieces?
What's the job like? It doesn't look too bad from what I've read. I've done some major work on bikes, but never a clutch. If I have replacement springs and pressure plates in hand, will those likely cover the repair, or should I have the steel plates or anything else before I start?
Thanks for any advice!
David
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- MFolks
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As to the friction disc's, I've run Barnette clutches in both my 1977 Kz1000 and now in my 82 GPz1100 B2 with no problems.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- loudhvx
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I even called 3 speed shops and they all said the same thing... "Throw away any aftermarket disks and only use oem disks". I screwed around with the aftermarket ones for weeks and never got them to work right even with the aftermarket springs. They were way too heavy. I can't remember if it was Barnett or EBC.
The OEM disks grab better with light OEM springs and release better. Scuff the glaze off the steel plates while you're in there.
The disks need to be soaked in motor oil overnight before you install them. Put them in a pie tin then put a margarine container in the middle so you don't use as much oil. Make sure the oil is in between the disks while soaking. Don't stack them neatly, zig zag them to make sure all surfaces are exposed to oil.
Be sure you are very careful torquing down the spring bolts. They like to strip if the holes have oil in them. Absorb the oil with a paper towel wick before putting the bolts back in. Then put one turn at a time on the bolts after they start to put pressure on the springs. Go in a circle skipping every other bolt. When they start to snug, only go half turns. When the bolts bottom out on the shoulder, there is no cush. They will be bottomed immediately so make sure the torque wrench is set much lighter than the torque spec until the bolts are all seated. It takes a long time, but rushing it will strip one. When you get to the final torque, the bolts should not turn much at all. If they do, stop, something may be wrong. It seems like such a simple task, but it can get ugly real fast. Remember, those bolts are going into soft aluminum.
There is a manual in my signature if you need the torque specs.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- TeK9iNe
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- What did you do!?!
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Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- Patton
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Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- db4570
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It seems a lot of guys here run aftermarket clutches. Is it just the 550 that OEM is best for?
I think I am leaning toward OEM, though, just to be on the safe side.
David
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- hocbj23
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- MentalMike
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I'm considering them for my next clutch change.
Anyone try them?
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- otakar
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www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- otakar
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74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- MentalMike
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Are you talking about APE plates or springs? If you are talking about APE springs, than I hope you have a very strong grip. If you are talking about plates than I have not had the occasion to ever have to replace my clutch on ANY of my bikes. Some of my clutches have well over 60,K on them and they are still like new.
This is what I'm talking about.
Not sure if they're available for all models though.
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1490
I swear to God, it's like I live in a trailer of common sense, and stare out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
1976 Kawasaki KZ900
1978 Kawasaki KZ1000A
1978 Kawasaki KZ650 C
1984 Kawasaki ZN1100 LTD
1985 Kawasaki ZX900A2 GPZ (2)
1985 Kawasaki ZL900 Eliminator
2013 Kawasaki C14 Concours
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- otakar
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otakar wrote:
Are you talking about APE plates or springs? If you are talking about APE springs, than I hope you have a very strong grip. If you are talking about plates than I have not had the occasion to ever have to replace my clutch on ANY of my bikes. Some of my clutches have well over 60,K on them and they are still like new.
This is what I'm talking about.
Not sure if they're available for all models though.
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1490
OK that is a street kit. That would be fine for a "J" bike. Once again the question is WHY? when all you need is. This
www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=319
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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