A few cam chain removal questions

First, my manual says to turn the crank so that 1 and 4 are at TDC before removing the cam chain tensioner. Simple enough, but my engine is seized so getting 1 and 4 to TDC is a problem. What is going to happen if I take this off with the engine in the wrong position? I plan on replacing the stock tensioner btw.

Second, I can't tell if I am going to need to remove the cam chain to get my cylinders off. Can it stay in place?

Third, my manual indicates the engine needs to be removed to replace/remove the cam chain. Is this assuming replacement with an endless chain versus one with a master link?

Thanks in advance.

It makes no difference where the engine is rotated when the tensioner is removed and yes the cylinder can be removed with the camchain in the engine. You tie a string or wire ect to the chain to let it fall down through the camchain cavity into the engine for easy retrieval. To replace the chain with the stock endless chain you do have to remove the engine and split the cases and this has been an area of debate. Many guys don't trust masterlinks in the camchain because obviously the thought of a chain breaking is not a pleasant one. I've never heard of a properly installed masterlink be it on a drive chain or a camchain ever causing $0.02 worth or trouble so my advice is to use the masterlink type to minimize unnecessary labor. You can cut your old chain, tie the new one to it using the masterlink and simply turn the engine over threading out the old and in with the new and you're all done. Also debatable is the service life of a camchain. I think Jeff at Z1 said like 30,000 miles, but they will go much longer than that although timing may suffer. I went 150,000 miles plus on a KZ650 with the original chain as I don't replace anything before it's worn out.

Thanks for the info.

Thats good to hear about the engine removal. I am hoping to avoid that due to limited space and an absence of a worktable.

If you don't mind my asking, why does the manual suggest the TDC alignment?

if your motor is seized it would be a good idea when you get the head and cylinder off to check out the rest of the engine to see what other damages have occured if it bad wenough to seize the top end you probably will have at the very least ahuge mess in the bottom end to get cleaned up. take the engine out anddoit the right wayand no matter what people say a master link in a chain is not as strong as an endless chain even if it was most people don't have the proper experiance or tools to pull it off.

Just a guess, But I figure the reason the manual recommends placing the crank at 1-4 TDC prior to removing cams is... All the cam timing marks are at this position. Thus allowing you to check cam/crank timing prior to removal, and verify upon re-assy without rotating crank... Cheep Trick, mark advancer & cam sprockets w/white-out before dis-assy, & if not actually removing cams, zip tie cam chain to cam sprockets... ALWAYS re-confirm timing, But can save time, & adds to peace of mind, as with chain wear marks often "migrate" in relation to new. (if I had a 5 spot for every time I've rotated a cam 1 tooth looking for optimum timing, I could probly buy dinnerfor most of us.) G

Pistons seize for one reason, too much heat. What happened that caused the seizure? That's the main thing you need to address.

There may be con rod small end damage also. Look things over very carefully.

My engine turned over fine before I parked it several years ago. I don't know for sure, but I think my piston rings may be rusted to my cylinder walls. Is that not a reasonable assumption? I suppose rust could be at the crank, but I think the oil in the case would prevent that wouldn't it?

its totally up to you but i know i'd be doing a complete teardown. if for no other reason than to change out the cam chain and to make sure everything thing else was cool.