Break In

VARY THE RPM.

Prep the block correctly.

Wipe out any excess oil in the cylinder bores before you install the head using good paper towels. It's just going to blow out the exhaust valve and start the process of carbon build up that much quicker.

Thanks Larry..I did use quite a lot of oil in the cylinders whin we were sliding the block over the pistons.
Tom

Buda wrote:

Thanks Larry..I did use quite a lot of oil in the cylinders whin we were sliding the block over the pistons.
Tom

Me too... and it smoked for about the first ten minutes after I fired it up.:laugh:

Buda wrote:

Thanks Larry..I did use quite a lot of oil in the cylinders whin we were sliding the block over the pistons.
Tom

Tom,

Make sure to get on the head retorque after you heat cycle the engine the first time. Let it get stone cold, then go over all the head fasteners again.

Ride Safe

larrycavan wrote:

"Make sure to get on the head retorque after you heat cycle the engine the first time. Let it get stone cold, then go over all the head fasteners again. "

Larry, a question I've seen here many times relates to this process but I'm not sure I've seen a difinitive answer. Do you loosen all bolts before retorquing, loosen them one at a time as you retorque each one, or not loosen them at all and simply apply the torue again to ensure they are still in spec? Thanks, Ed

Do not loosen. Just tighten to the prescribed torque setting. Make sure that the engine has been up to operating temperature a few times and when you tighten that the engine is cold.

I followed Larry's advice on checking the torque on the head. I found that after the first heat cycle, two of the nuts were loose. Then, after 50 miles I found four of them were loose. I highly recommend that you take his advice and check them.

I put in a regular motorcycle dino oil at first.
Let it warm up by riding around for 5 min varying the throttle lots and poping it at lights.
Then I blow the snot out of her for about 50 miles in town!
HARD. HURRY, HARD! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Then get back and drop that oil like its hot! (Cause it frikken is!)

Dump in Amsoil 20W50 Motorcycle, and off ya go.

I've done this to 20+ Bikes, and every one is still ploughing along great!

650ed wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

"Make sure to get on the head retorque after you heat cycle the engine the first time. Let it get stone cold, then go over all the head fasteners again. "

Larry, a question I've seen here many times relates to this process but I'm not sure I've seen a difinitive answer. Do you loosen all bolts before retorquing, loosen them one at a time as you retorque each one, or not loosen them at all and simply apply the torue again to ensure they are still in spec? Thanks, Ed

Personally, I assemble all the fasteners with lube on them so I don't loosen them back up again.

Put some oil inside the nuts and on the stud threads. Just a drop or two to coat the threads. Don't fill the nut with oil or anything like that.

Put a thin film of assembly grease on washers and a drop of oil on the bottom of the nuts. Everything spins nice & easy.

When it's time to go over the nuts again, I set the torque wrench to max torque setting I'm using and follow the torque sequence.

The trick is to get to those head nuts after the first heat cycle.

Just to be clear, how many miles of throttle revving need to be ridden before you can go for a normal cruise at steady throttle? Like I said in a previous post I don't have any smoke anymore...

BTW, thanks for the cams Larry, I love 'em

First 50 miles is more then enough for those rings have shaved the sleeve walls and seated in the first 10-20 miles....

First run, rpm up and down to seat the rings...
Take her home and let her FULLY cool down.
Re-torque ALL engine bolts and also frame engine mounting bolts if the engine was removed for rebuild.

After 50 miles or so, change out oil and oil filter!
This is a must for you had cam pre-lube and will have metal shavings/dust down in the pan now...

At 500 miles, check your cam to shim clearances... Adjust (shim swap) as required.

At 1500 miles, check valve clearances again.... If desired, now you can switch to synthetic oils... If doing so, replace oil and filter...

This is what I learned off Plum and Larry, you follow this and you'll be golden...

OMR

thank you. I guess I know what I am doing tonight!