No Start PLEASE HELP!!!!!

Sandy:
When I cleaned the carbs I didn't end up with any spare parts and I didn't change the jets or any thing else for that matter. I also didn't mess with any mixture screws as it ran before and didn't want to mess it up:huh: . But I will let ya know what I find as soon as I get a chance.

Thank you all.

gr8: A number of things could be keeping the bike from starting... The wet plugs SEEM to mean the bike is getting gas through the pilot jet... in fact, it is probably flooded by now. Don't hold the throttle open when you try and start it...

Next thing is to remove both float bowls. There is a brass tube that hangs down and I believe it fits into a hole in the float bowl. First, blow carb cleaner through the hole in the float bowl. It should come out the hole on the gasket mating surface edge. Be careful not to blow it in your eyes. There is a small check valve in there I think that can get gummed up. If it is gummed up, you will have to find a fine wire to poke into both the inlet and outlet end holes alternating with shots of carb cleaner till spray comes through cleanly. This hole is for gas pick up by the choke circuit. Next, poke the thin wire into the brass choke pickup tube that fits into the hole...

If your choke system isn't picking up gas, the bike will be VERY hard to start.

You can also try some starter fluid. This stuff is real flamable so be careful but a shot into your air cleaner should allow the bike to start.

The mechanical timing advance won't affect starting UNLESS it is gummed up and somehow stuck in full advance. I doubt that is the case but remove your points cover and ignition plate. The mechanical advance is the BADGE shaped deal underneath that will have a timing mark for at least the 1/4 cylinder since you have an electronic ignition. It will have a 17mm nut with a smaller nut inside. Remove the smaller nut to remove the advance. The 17mm nut is the one used to turn the engine over by hand. In any case, you remove the bolt that holds the advance and can then clean the advance. There is a sleeve that slides off the end of the advance once you have move the two arms out a bit so that the holes on the sleeve line up with the tangs on the arms. You essentially want to ensure the surface underneath is clean and then lube with dielectic grease. Be careful of the two springs... they don't like to get stretched as they are return springs only. As I said, I doubt this is your problem but this is service that needs doing anyway.

Last thing... while your air filter may be nice and clean, check openings to the air cleaner for critters. Check your exhaust pipes for critters. Critters like to get in these areas and nest. If they do, the bike won't start... it happens ALL THE TIME when bikes are parked!

wiredgeorge:
Thank you for the tech info. I will give what you said a try this weekend and let you know what happens. After thinking about what all has been stated on this post I think it is a problem with the carbs dumping too much fuel.

After this weekend I will post what my results were. Hopefully I will also have some pics of my bike to show too.

Yes the 82 has electronic ignition with a mechanical timing advancer, but the timing is not adjustable and the timing advancer will not have a 1/4 mark because it's a twin. It will have a timing mark it just won't be marked 1/4.

The 750 twin will start and run on just one cylinder, and is easy to start on the kickstart (even on just one cylinder).

I seriously suggest getting a multimeter and checking the coil and plug wires/caps. One coil fires both plugs at the same time, and if there is any ignition problem then the bike won't start. Just because you have spark in free air (when testing the plugs outside the motor) does not mean you have spark under compression.

The usual problem on the twins that causes this is bad plug caps. You can buy new ones for ~$7 a pair.

Oh yeah, the timing is not adjustable unless you want to slot the pickup mounting holes, and you would be wasting your time anyway, because that is not the problem.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/04/03 20:45

steell:
Thanks for the info. I will look into the ignition system. I have one question though, how do you check the coil and what should the readings be (should I crank it and look for loltage or do an ohms reading )? Also if the plug ends are bad (which is possible from sitting so long) where can I get a set from?

Well I guess I had more than 1 question.LOL
Thanks again.

Just my 2 cents are the sparkplug wires switched? #1 on #2, #2 on #1 and I swear I have never done this myself :whistle:

scotty:
You have a very worthy 2 cents but they are on the correct cylinder. I have done it before too :laugh:

Well to let you all know what happened this weekend. I cleaned my carbs again Yuck they were really gumed up. After thinking about when the last time I cleaned them and figured out it has been about 9 months:blush: .
I got them back on with a fuel filter on and new gas. She kept poping off like she wanted to start but no start. After about an hour of kick starting it she finally fired up and ran about 15 seconds and died. not to start again. I think my problem is the carbs are letting too much fuel in. The plugs are getting really wet. So I am going to have to get those figured out as to what is going on. Thank you all for your help and if any one knows any tips or tricks to these carbs I would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all.