Not to happy.

So I just finish my top end rebuild on my Z1B. Everything went fine until I put the exhaust on today. The part where my bolt screws into the head snapped off on one side. I just had a machine shop put in a helicoil right in that hole. I am wondering if they weakened it at all. What can I do about that? Would it be possible to tig weld it back on? The chunk is about the size of a dime. I will try to post pictures of it later.

Also more problems occurred when I tried to give the bike its first start up. My carbs leak bad. Good thing that is an easy fix. And the last problem I noticed is my starter doesnt engage with the crank. It spins but it doesnt spin the engine. I don't remember messing with the starter but I might have. Would that basically be the gears not meshing up or something else?

A good welder might be able to repair the area, but ask around.

If you're using car specific oil, the over running clutch may be slipping due to friction mdifiers in it.
__________________________________________________________
Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S

1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:

A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).

2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.

3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.

5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.

6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.

7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!

8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.

9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.

10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.

kawasakibikefan wrote:

So I just finish my top end rebuild on my Z1B. Everything went fine until I put the exhaust on today. The part where my bolt screws into the head snapped off on one side. I just had a machine shop put in a helicoil right in that hole. I am wondering if they weakened it at all. What can I do about that? Would it be possible to tig weld it back on? The chunk is about the size of a dime. I will try to post pictures of it later.

Also more problems occurred when I tried to give the bike its first start up. My carbs leak bad. Good thing that is an easy fix. And the last problem I noticed is my starter doesnt engage with the crank. It spins but it doesnt spin the engine. I don't remember messing with the starter but I might have. Would that basically be the gears not meshing up or something else?

Starter sounds like the starter clutch or you left out the gear under the generator cover.

Welding the stud boss back on depends on if they can reach it.

You can also fix that on the bike another way. Same thing happened to me on my bike. Pissed me right off... :laugh:

Mine was the bottom stud on #2 cylinder. The piece holding the stud just pulled right off the head. Not much material there at all. Shitty casting..

I drilled the stud hole deeper, tapped it and used a longer stud with a nut and a spacer.

You put a nut on the stud end that threads into the head. Red loctite the stud in place and tighten the nut as a jam nut.

Put a spacer on the outboard side of the nut of the correct length so the exhaust clap sits evenly when you tighten it. Harder to describe than it is to do.

What you have to watch for is to get the threads good and straight or the exhaust clamp could be hard to get back on. You can ream the holes if you have to.

I will add that I never had one break off like that before and now that yours did too...I don't feel lonely anymore :woohoo: [just kidding]

check the woodruff key on crankshaft

It happens but the easiest ways to repair it mentioned may not be best.If it were mine I'd bite the bullet take the head off and apart to have it welded and a good shop to drill and tap the new hole.As mentioned very important that it is in proper alignment.

Someone covered the starter problem very well!

12345678910 fwew youll get it worked out welding is a drastict step listen to larry

Yes it is a drastic step but will effect a proper repair.This is a reasonably common problem with a lot of the japanese inline 4's.I'm not discounting other's suggestions only that IMO the welding is best.Let us know what you did and how it turned out that's the best measure....