Liquid gasket on valve cover?

This is just a thought, so feel free to shoot it down. I've read where many automobile manufacturers have gone to liquid gasket materials instead of paper gaskets on the assemble lines for sealing engines in new cars. Indeed, even ten years ago, when I was working on Mopar race cars, we used to seal the pumpkins in differentails with orange silicon instead of paper, and we never had a leak.

I need to replace the valve cover on my 750-4, and was thinking of using just a liquid gasket instead of using the standard paper gasket (and not once again sending $20 or more, then waiting around a few weeks for that expensive piece of paper).

If it works for Ford and GM, would it work for me?

absolutely my friend!

Proper copper for Head gasket.
Threebond 1194 or 1104 "Yama-Bond" for Base Gasket.
Permatex #2 Liquid gasket - for everywhere else!

What I do Is get a roll of rubberized cork, about $5-6. and cut one. This lets me take it off again without problems, just put some grease on the head side and it should stay on the valve cover with the bolts. Takes about 20 min to cut it, and I have a set of gasket cutters for the bolt holes.
But back to you're question, it is true that many valve covers and really the rest of the motors are put together with silicone seal. But so far I've yet to see a head gasket replacement made from liquid, but it may not be far off.

Auto Zone has rubberized paper (1/32") that is indestructible and you can get two gaskets worth for about $4. That's what I am running and it is really strong and crush resistant. I have had cork fail from being crushed if you try to torque the full 100 inch-pounds specified for the cover boltsa.

I've been looking for the Threebond 1194 for a while now. I live in a rural area of northern California, and can't find any local store that carries it.

Where have you found it?

TeK9iNe wrote:

Permatex #2 Liquid gasket - for everywhere else!

I used that Permatex #2 stuff last year for new carb boots and was thinking for valve cover. What's it like to get a valve cover off and to remove the stuff ?

I use the standard gasket from Z1E and sparingly use yamabond to hold the gasket in place while I put the valve cover back on.

JR wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote:

Permatex #2 Liquid gasket - for everywhere else!

I used that Permatex #2 stuff last year for new carb boots and was thinking for valve cover. What's it like to get a valve cover off and to remove the stuff ?

The permatex #2 (white tube) doesnt harden up nearly as much as the others, and is quite easy to remove from any surface.

LINK LINK LINK

polkat wrote:

I've been looking for the Threebond 1194 for a while now. I live in a rural area of northern California, and can't find any local store that carries it.

Where have you found it?

You can order the 1194 from HERE @ Z1ENTERPRISES

id say use a new gasket ,if youve ever seen the results of permatex blocking an oil gallery it aint purdy.
areas with a wide contact area work good with sealer,valve cover is kinda thin and most of it would end up in cam bearings or oil gallerys i think

you may also need the extra height the gasket will provide for cam lobe clearance. go with a gasket and install it dry that is the best way.

Just went out and did some carefull measurements. Seems there is at least 1/16th inch of clearance even if no gasket or sealant is used, so I'm okay there. I'm not necessarily going to go with sealant only myself, but after reading how Ford, Chrysler, GM and others are now going the sealant route only (except of course head gaskets) on many of their engines, and having some past experience with it myself, I'm not fully convenced that paper gaskets are the only way to go. I'll probably try it and if it doesn't work out...well, then I will have learned!