What oil should I run?

Designed for wet clutch engines...

Expensive @ ~ $9 a quart, sure but so was my KZ build so why use anything less is the way I look at it... Runs smoother, cooler and better lubrication and yes you can actually hear the difference in the LISKA idler gear so why not pay the xtra little cost...

Same time, regular oil and filter changes using Dyno oil, not a problem for this is all they had back in the 70's...

OMR

id say buy the best cheap oil you can get easily,that oughta narrow the field! :laugh: ifthe motor has 30,000 unknown miles already i wouldnt get too fancy

"id say buy the best cheap oil you can get easily,that oughta narrow the field! "...

Yeah, look at plummens avatar... Cheap doctor in Nebraska did wonders for him...:blink: :huh: :dry: :laugh:

Remembering back when the old filling stations had a rack to drain and collect the last few drops from oil cans that had just been emptied into a crankcase.

The freshly emptied oil can was placed upside down on the rack to drip drip drip.

Now that must have resulted in some truly unique blends. :laugh:

But it was indeed new oil. And sold at a discount.

Good Fortune!

And we wonder why some of these old cars no longer run past 70K miles or so.... :huh: :dry: :laugh:

Another thing I forgot to mention, AZ heat index... 115*F :ohmy: :blink: in the summer, oh yeah, synthetic makes a difference...

OMR

You wont go wrong with Shell Rotella-T Mineral or synthetic on a stock bike. Has everything the bike requires. Wall-Mart between $13-$18 /Gallon jug, depending on which flavor you want M or S. The high performance antique car guys swear by it, and so do many if not most of us. I called Shell and YES it still has more than enough ZDDP.