Valve clearances (is this correct way to read them

Hello All

I am looking for help on reading my valve clearances etc. I am from South Africa Cape town and ride a stock KZ1100 shaft A1 model 1981.

Okay this is what i had done.
Took off cam cover etc,,etc,

1. When #1 piston tdc i took as manual says clearances for Pistons no 1 and no 2 exhaust valves. When i took the readings no1 ex cam lobe was facing outward and no 2 ex cam lobe facing upward. Is this correct. my readings are
No 1 ex 0.102mm shim size is 255mm.
No 2 ex 0.038mm (no gap) shim size is 255mm

#2 tdc I took readings for valve no1 and no2 intake.
No 1 in cam lobe was facing up and NO2 was facing outward.
Readings
No1 in 0.038mm shim size 245mm
no2 in 0.203 shim size 240 mm

#3 TDC i took readings for valve no3 and no4 in let valves
Cam lode for no3 in was facing outward and for no4 cam lobe facing up.
Readings
No3 in 0.038shim size 245mm
no4 in 0.038 shim size 240mm

#4 i took readings for no3 and no4 exhaust valves.
Cam lode for no3 was facing up and no4 was facing outward.
Readings

no3 ex 0.038 shim size 250mm
no4 ex 0.178 shim size 250mm

I had done this as the manual for a KZ1100 says so on page 2.6.

Now is these readings correct or when i take the readings do i take readings when the cam lobe is facing outward.

Please take note that i have a good compression rate for no1 piston only.

No compression on others.

If i take readings when cam lobe is facing outwards i get different readings

no1 in 0.051
no1 ex 0.051

no2 in 0.012
no2 ex no gap

no3 in no gap
no3 ex no gap

no4 in no gap
no4 ex 0.076

Please can someone help me to explain in laymans terms the best prodecure to take valve clearances.

Thank you one and all.

When i do my readings i always have the lobe of the cam pointing away from the shim bucket. I do not go in the order that the manual states. I do one side then the other side.

Is your engine cold? Roy

hi roy yes it is cold.....cam lobes pointing away from shims, could you explain further please

Then you can use your feeler guages.

Start with the minimun (thinnest) guage and check the clearances.

If you can't get the feeler guage between the cam and the shim,check and see if you can spin the bucket with your finger. If you can, you do have some clearance but not enough.

I don't have my manual in the house so i don't know if your clearances are in tolerance.

If the big numbers are showing too wide then you can swap them to the valves that have no clearance to see if that will bring them into the proper tolenance. Roy

Aim for 0.05~0.10mm (.002~.004in) clearance for each valve, measured with cam lobe pointed directly away from the valve.

Shim sizes come in .05mm steps. For example, with a 2.75mm shim, the next thinner shim is 2.70mm, and the next thicker shim is 2.80mm.

The existing shim must be removed (special tool) to read it's size on its underside. If the number is illegible, a caliper or micrometer may be used to measure its thickness.

As Roy mentioned, where clearance is insufficient, but the shim turns, there is some minimal clearance. So the next size smaller shim will likely suffice. If there's zero clearance and the shim won't turn, probably needs a shim two sizes thinner.

Typically, the existing shims may be mixed around to gain proper clearance for some of the valves.

Good Luck!

Here's the way I was tought by factory Kawasaki mechanic Keith Pestotnik RIP.
Turn engine over slowly while constantly trying to insert a .05mm feeler. If it fits, constantly try to insert a .10mm feeler and so on to find the largest feeler in .05mm increments that will fit at any rotation of the cam. Do this on all 8 valves. Call this your clearance, so if a .10mm fits and a .15mm does not, call .10mm your clearance. Do this on each valve. I try to get all at .10mm. Sure some may be .11mm, some .13mm ect, but who cares? Shims are available in only .05mm increments so if I changed a .11mm out for a larger shim I would then be at .06mm. Doing this way I know all my valves are between .10mm and .15mm right where they should be.
It drives me nuts reading how guys check their valves using 100 feelers. Does it really matter if valve #1 reads exactly .129mm? Lot's of wasted time. Valve shims come in .05mm increments, no need to measure to scientific 1000ths of a MM because you can't change settings except in .05mm steps.

I take the spark plugs out and use a wrench on the end of the crankshaft (by the points) to turn the crankshaft until the cam lobe is pointing directly away from the lifter bucket. In other words, a line through the cam would be at right angle to the flat face of the lifter bucket. Turn it ONLY in the direction of normal engine rotation, don't reverse direction.

The KZ750 twin ignition as shown on kawasaki.com doesn't show a 17mm "fake" nut. So using the bolt head from end of crankshaft to hand turn KZ750 twin crankshaft would seem doable, provided the plugs are first removed as bountyhunter suggested.

FSM for large fours cautions against ever using the bolt head from end of crankshaft to hand turn crankshaft under any circumstances. And says always use the 17mm "nut" to hand turn the crankshaft during applicable maintenance procedures.

Even with large fours, it's easier to first remove the spark plugs.

Good Luck!

Yes, the 17 mm fake nut is what you use to turn the crankshaft. My 1979 750 twin has the 17mm fake nut on it. If it's a twin, turn the shaft counterclockwise (that's the normal direction of rotation).

i just finished changing shims on my kz1000p and i can tell you to make sure your cam bolts are to spec and do not overtorque them they will strip,you need a fsm for your bike and make sure you read previous posts about the wrong torque specs in some manuals.my manual(clymers)called out 12 ft lbs of torque and it should have been 90 inch lbs.just be carefull you have the correct info before starting.