ape cam tensioner yeh or nay

i have succesfully adjusted my valve clearances and now the only thing i hear is the cam chain on my 2001 kzp and it looks like i am leaking oil there!i have read some old posts and am curious if any of you guys have had good luck with that ape manual tensioner?i think i would like to know with certainty whether or not i have proper tension there and maybe it will quite it down a bit.thanks for any advise and i really appreciate all of the tips you guys gave me on my valve adjustments!

If not already done, would assure carbs are properly synced, before attributing cam chain noise to the particular style tensioner being used.

A well-tuned engine with good close carb sync often significantly reduces cam chain noise.

Good Luck!

use the ape tensioner if you set it properly it can save a motor.

Doesn't the P have a self adjusting cam chain tensioner ? Is the manual APE better ?

I have a question about these.Can you adjust the chain with the engine running.Never used one before.

I believe its recommended to tighten them up while its running, Just until the chain noise dissipates.

jeffasaki wrote:

I have a question about these.Can you adjust the chain with the engine running.Never used one before.

thats a new one on me....adjusting cam chain with engine running.....

Well thats why Im asking.Ive never used the product before.But i guess that answers my question.I just thought that maybe because this tensioner is not dependent on spring or hydraulic pressure that it might allow for some additional fine adjustment options.

the ape tensioner is set with the engine stopped at tdc on 1+4

Thanks have a good one!

I have a 1991 KZP and I have the APE tensioner on it.
To set it they say with the engine off screw it in until you feel the rod just touch the chain or the chain guide ( you do it by feel) then back it off a quarter turn.

I did that and I still had some noise so I also loosen the lock nut with the engine running and adjust it by small increments in or out based on the sound.
Be careful you can set it too tight. I set it too tight and it hardly made any noise but the bike felt weird until I backed it off a bit. Seemed harder to start...

Once you have it set you don't have to mess with it for a while unless your cam chain starts making noise.

I think I read on the motordr site for KZP's that you can also weld a small nut on the stock tensioner rod to have more length on the rod and the spring will push the nut against the cam guides.

They do all say this is a temporary fix and if your cam chain is worn or if the guides are grooved it's only going to get worse.

The worst part of the install was R&R'ing the carbs.
Easy to take off a major pain to replace.

Check out www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=135386
this is the section on tuning the tensioner with the engine running.....


5. “Now the fun part...tuning it. Tighten the big middle bolt on the tensioner until it is hand tight. You feel some pressure on the chain then back it out a 1/4 of a turn. Start the bike and give it a few revs to where you were hearing the chain rattle, most likely between 4000-6000 RPM. Turn off the bike. Tighten the tensioner bolt in small increments and retest until your rattle is gone. Both the bolt and lock-nut are 5/8 inch. You don't want it too tight, so a little rattle is ok. A little loose is better than too tight. After you find the sweet spot make sure you remember to tighten the lock-nut as well.” I had to actually go for a test ride to make sure. I just left the fairing off, went for a ride, came back and decided to tighten it a little more. .......


Bill

thanks for the info!i will probably order the ape one to!did yours come with a gasket that goes between the block and the tensioner or is there only a oring on the inside?