Base gasket on KZ1000

I should be getting my cylinder back with my 1075 pistons in the next weeks or so. Do you guys use any type of sealant on the base gasket or just put it on dry? My Clymer manual says to put a small amount of silicone around the four rear inside studs. Will Threebond 1194 work ok for that?

Thanks

I'm not certain about the Threebond, but Yamabond #4 will work for the entire base gasket, no problem.

Get it at thier dealerships.
(Yamabond #4) Yamaha Part Number: ACCYAMABND04

Good luck!

i always put stock fiber base gaskets in dry unless you have some gouges to fill, i wouldn't use any type of sealant myself. 1194 is threebonds replacement for 1104 yama bond 4 is the exact same product as 1104 made by the same company and everything.

What about the sealant around the studs? Do you guys do that?

like i always install them dry but a little bit around certin studs probably would hurt just as long as it's not silicone that crap will plug oil gallerys faster then you could possibly imagine.

I have pulled the barrels twice on one of my KZ1000A1's...because there was a leak at the base gasket after re-assembly. Sometimes they work dry...sometimes they don't. I now use 1194.

Before you lay down the base gasket, wipe the case & block gaset surfaces with acetone, brake clean or something along those lines. NOT CARB CLEANER

A little engine case sealer [yamabond or equivelant]is fine to use around the oil passages. Just don't over do it and don't get it in the passages.

One of the most common mistakes I see made is this. People don't reqtorque the head soon enough. Waiting 500 miles to retorque when you do a valve adjustment is just too long.

Heat cycle the motor 1 time. Let it get stone cold & before you fire it up again, retorque the head.

After your initial ride with your fresh new motor, let the bike get stone cold again and retorque the head one more time.

Don't forget the two 6mm bolts on the ends of the block.

Check it again at the 500 mile valve adjustment service.

If you lube the head washers with some assembly lube when you assemble the motor, you won't have to bust the nuts loose to retorque them. Just set the torque wrench to the appropriate max torqe setting for the studs your using in the cases and go over the nuts.

Also if you're using a one piece head gasket, you can use some sealer on both sides of the gasket in the camchain cavity area.

i replaced my studs and used the 1194 where manual said to and no leaks whatsoever on base gasket

larrycavan wrote:

Before you lay down the base gasket, wipe the case & block gaset surfaces with acetone, brake clean or something along those lines. NOT CARB CLEANER

A little engine case sealer [yamabond or equivelant]is fine to use around the oil passages. Just don't over do it and don't get it in the passages.

One of the most common mistakes I see made is this. People don't reqtorque the head soon enough. Waiting 500 miles to retorque when you do a valve adjustment is just too long.

Heat cycle the motor 1 time. Let it get stone cold & before you fire it up again, retorque the head.

After your initial ride with your fresh new motor, let the bike get stone cold again and retorque the head one more time.

Don't forget the two 6mm bolts on the ends of the block.

Check it again at the 500 mile valve adjustment service.

If you lube the head washers with some assembly lube when you assemble the motor, you won't have to bust the nuts loose to retorque them. Just set the torque wrench to the appropriate max torqe setting for the studs your using in the cases and go over the nuts.

Also if you're using a one piece head gasket, you can use some sealer on both sides of the gasket in the camchain cavity area.

Thats THE best advise right there!

Great advice! I will use a little 1194.