Spinning Rotor

78 KZ1000 rotor,not keyed,taper lock only.
bought bike with bad starter clutch,(it came with a all new starter clutch assy).I got the bad one off and installed the new .I lapped the rotor and crank together b4 assy,red loctite on bolt and torqued too 95 ft lbs as per the book,let it sit overnight.Startup the next day was fine I let the bike warm up then cool down.Next startup as soon as the bike fired I heard the rotor spin,DA'D and sure enough it was loose.I went through this ordeal about 5 or 6 times b4 the snow hit and the bikes got stored.Any help would be greatly appreciated.Ive been thinking Ill try warming the rotor and cooling the crank.
PS I have a brand new keyed rotor that I have no use for at the moment.Thanks Jeff

Also I want to add that I have the 3 different spacers/dampers and have tried all three with the same results.

i rebuilt mine when i got bike as it wasnt working...made it about 6 months and rotor came loose...i inspected everything and put in new pins and rollers i had and reassembled it...red locker this time also, but i hit it with impact(small one,big one crapped out)and then i put a breaker bar on it and smacked it moderately with a hammer....holding so far....

why would you lap it in, since its a tapper fit, seems to me like you may have removed some of the tapper and thus not getting the full amount of press fit.

First try on the crank I checked contact area with some blueing ink saw a small area of none contact spoke with Gord Bush and was advised to lap components to achive full contact.That is why.

You say there is no woodruff key on the crank. I had a problem with mine and the rotor would smack the stator and take out my charging system. My bolt would loosen and everything went to hell quick. Took about 4 times before I got it worked out, even sheared the woodruff key 2 times. Impact and loctite got it done but what a pain it was.

My experiance told me that if the crank and rotor are scored bad, they will never lock together.the rotor is softer, so it will likely be the worst.the big problem is that it can screw your whole summer. if u need to replace the crank, u need to pull the motor and split the cases.
i would be tracking down a spare crank now, if u feel the crank is scored.
i tried lapping, and dif rotors, as well.
I tracked down a bad crank with a good rotor end on it.
I had Gord Bush change the end on the crank for me.$90 if i recall. my crank was good otherwise, and allready welded.
It would be easier to just get another GOOD crank.

There is some light galling on it form all the spinning.I think im gonna try polishing both surfaces and try the hot cold thing if that dont work im sending it down to Gord sounds like a cheap fix and this crank is welded and balanced so I wanna keep it.Thanks for the input

Start looking for a spare crank, so u wont be in a jamb if it doesnt work.
Try Mike Law , at Raceworks, near London.He keeps spare parts.Or Ebay. have them cut the bid end off, to save shipping costs.

I wont be in a jam.I have 4 other bikes i can ride on the street.As long as I dont have to resort to the 90cc yamaha Ill be OK.Thanks for the contact info though.

jeffasaki wrote:

I wont be in a jam.As long as I dont have to resort to the 90cc yamaha Ill be OK..

:lol: :lol: