CC Sprocket falls OFF !

i have a habit of thinking worst case senerio most of the time.
my first thought was output shaft bearing when he called.
then i called my mentor and he said the c-clip on the shift lever might have fallen off and that was why he could not shift it into any gear.

leave it to old plummen to slap both of us and tell us to look for the simple things first.

now if it was me, it WOULD be the shift shaft clip and a wiped out tranny. i would be pulling the motor again and splitting cases. but that's just me and how my luck goes.

i'm glad it was just something small.
fuck torque specs, use a impact and loctite.

Screw Loctite... I welded it on!

Yet another inexcusable failure to have on hand an original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench. These wrenches have no equal, and are scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in most applications specify the Guttentite setting.

It's high time to move beyond the time-honored Arizona Redneck technique of "Twist until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn." :pinch:

Hope this helps!

if front wheel comes off ground as youre torquing the sprocket nut youre close enough in my book! :laugh:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Screw Loctite... I welded it on!

tell me ya didnt:laugh: ....when i changed mine out i used a breaker bar and the built in big-man ft/lb right arm gauge...hopefully even if the tab breaks, she aint coming off.......:laugh:

Old Man Rock wrote:

Screw Loctite... I welded it on!

I welded mine on too:ohmy:

Are you using some kind of offset sprocket? when i had my fat tire GPZ i used a Kosman bearing support plate and 5/8 offset sprocket...

Yes, 12mm (1/2") offset with a 630 chain setup...
Well made German one piece design I picked up from American-Classix.com

americanclassix.com/streetfighter_conversions.html

NOTE: At the time I picked mine up they didn't offer the 530 offsets... ZX6 R rear sprocket (530) template was the same as the 1979 KZ750 sprocket in 630 pitch. Had to convert the rear...

As depicted in the image set, the washer tab broke off which gave the nut a method to back thread is my best guess.. And for the fact in my original screw up, I had not used BLUE Loctite and like a dumbass, paid the price.... :blush: Yes, I received a scolding from Plummen.... :laugh:

In speaking with Plum, it made sense of how this is possible where during my mid RPM range needle jet testing, while riding @ 5000-6500rpm, whack the throttle then let go and listen for back firing, popping, lulls, lags, flat spots etc.... Obviously this was placing a considerable amount of rapid torque pressures on the output drive shaft & sprocket.

In my setup, higher compression pistons, performance cams, 1.5" competition baffle (back pressures) basically increased HP & more importantly in this issue torque and a 180mm fat tire that truly grips like a sonsabitch (Mich Road Pilot 2, CT technology).... this would be a common issue that he had witnessed numerous times in the drag racing scene...

NOTE: I'm in no way stating or comparing by build to a drag bike so please don't go there....:S

All in all, in my long ride (300 + miler) pre ride checks, pop off the cover and check the torque on the nut @ 108 lbs/ft...

Would have been cool if the drive shaft had a hole where a cotter pin could be inserted for added protection..

OMR