Clutch plate question

In the next couple of weeks I will be tearing down the motor on my 77 KZ1000 to rebuild it with a 1075 kit. While I have it apart I plan on pulling the clutch and inspecting it. It's not slipping now, but I'm going to measure the friction discs to see if they are within spec. I've read about people sandblasting the metal plates to knock off the glaze. I don't have access to a sandblaster, so what is the next best thing to use on them?

i would venture a high count sand paper or a 3m scotchbrite.....if you plan on keeping bike , i would get new fibers and metals and be done with it.....i think i am going to go with the 4/4 redline offers....4 stock fibers and 4 barnetts.....i have had barnetts before and they hold like a sombitch although a little less than smooth compared to stock as far as engagement......i have all new metals and fibres that have 1k on em, but i get a little bit of slippage during the first couple of launches into the ride....after that all is well.....on my gs1150 it was the clutch hub.....gotta peek around in there.......just my .02.....

Advice provided to me... stay with OEM plates and springs... ~ $120 for friction & steel plates and springs

I'm now using Synthetic oil, no issues what so ever....

OMR

In case you need it.... For the KZ900 but should be close or exactly the same....

OMR wrote: "Advice provided to me... stay with OEM plates and springs... ~ $120 for friction & steel plates and springs
I'm now using Synthetic oil, no issues what so ever..."

Ditto here. Ed

For years I have taken clutch apart and after wiping off the oil and drying, I take emery cloth to the steels to get glase off. Usually shows sanding marks depending on roughness of paper. Use finer paper. I also use emery cloth on the fibers til they get a dull look which is taking the glaze off. Had bike slip clutch really bad and after doing this, hooked like a bitch! Doesn't really take alot of work but really makes the clutch work better. This isn't rocket science here. Just wipe them off, de-glaze them and re-install. Pay attention how they come out as the steels have a sharp edge on one side and a rounded side. Can't remember right now which side goes in first though, but it does make a difference over time. Will work either way but the correct way is better as the sharp edge doesn't slide as easy as the rounded edge. Some guys will put in heavier springs for a slipping clutch but unless you are pushing massive amounts of HP, you shouldn't need them. Re-doing the clutch like above eliminates lots of the problems.

Thanks guys!