1980 KZ1000 LTD cam chain removal/replace

Hello everyone, I recently picked up a big bore kit for the bike (1075cc) along with a new Tsubaki cam chain, everywhere I search on how to replace the cam chain they reccomend that the cases be split to keep the chain in one piece. The Tsubaki chain I ordered comes with a master link, I also picked up a motion pro cam chain breaker....I was thinking of removing the head, break the old cam chain, connect the new chain to the old via the master link, and turning the crank over (by hand) and feed the new chain through and I am done without splitting the cases!

has anyone else done this?

Dave

:S

You have the basic idea correct but you'll also need to remove the timing chain adjuster...

Realistically and theoretically speaking, you could accomplish without removing the head... It's easier if you do for sure in which case you'll also require a head gasket (bottom base gasket between cylinder & head).

First thing first, remove spark plugs and in using the 17mm nut under the right side ignition plate cover, rotate CW for TDC in 1 & 4 (T mark) to case alignment.

And always, take pictures pre removal a prime example is in your camshaft lobe orientations at TDC... This way you'll set 1/4 @ TDC, and replace exactly the same way back....

1) Remove valve cover and associated components.
2) Remove timing chain adjuster.
3) Remove cam caps and camshafts.
4) Cut/break timing chain.
5) Connect new chain to old securely!
6) With bike in neutral, pull old & feed new chains.
Follow the normal travel path when in operating so as not to bind on the roller tensioner or tensioner guide.
NOTE: With coat hanger wire or other stiff wire, secure to ends so they don't fall back down...
There usually enough space under the crank center gear to slide around.
7) With both ends of chain at top side, connect master link.
NOTE: You never mentioned if master link is pressed fit or clip... I would think pressed but just in case, the rounded non open end faces rotations just as in the drive chains between front and rear sprockets.
Install in cams (under chain), note lobe orientations.
Start with exhaust cam first, align lobe center to
head deck.
9) Insure you have the correct number of teeth for your engine model between camshaft gear links.

10) Install cam caps, torque too specifications and in
specification order.
11) Since still at TDC, install the timing chain adjuster to spec.
12) Using the 17mm nut, once again 360* rotate the new chain through it's travel path several times thus insuring no binding, no clunk, no oh SHIT! etc...
13) New valve cover gasket and cover installed to spec, install your carbs and you should be good to go...

If I missed anything, other please chime in...

OMR

Hay OMR, I think he wants to install his big bore kit at the same time, (I think) this would make it easy to change the chain. If the new chain has a master link than just cut the old one off. I would first check the service limit on the old chain. You may be doing a lot of extra work for nothing. The OEM chains were fine and last 80K+ if not on a drag bike with huge cams and rock hard springs.

Thanks OMR, I have new head gasket (one piece copper was told the one piece will work), new base gasket, new APE studs and APE nuts (LOL), along with an APE manual cam chain tensioner! I will be using the master link instead of smashing the pin to reassemble the chain, thanks for the advice/help, I would of forgotten to take pics....I hope I dont screw this up!


Dave:)

"wants to install his big bore kit at the same time"
Well even easier then....

Wasn't sure where this fit into the mix due to his statement of accomplishing with the cylinder on... Hell, if removing cylinder for bore kit, do it at that time...

Either case, can be accomplished...

Yes I will be installing the 1075 kit at the same time, I picked up a pre bored and honed 72mm block to expedite the process, it'a an MTC kit with the teflon buttons..

Thanks again!

Dave

do not use copper head gasket unless top of cylinders are O'ringed,otherwise it will tend to be a major oil leaker.(see uss valdeez)

My digital camera is dead, I will take a picture of the block and post. when it charges ..I dont see any "O ring"...

Dave

No oring on the cylinder block, wonder why I would be sent a one piece copper gasket....any other head gasket options?
I would not think a oem style 72mm composite o ring gasket would hold up

Dave


the compression ratio is 10.5:1

Just remmeber, new cam chains stretch/settle in fairly quickly, so check to make sure your cam chain tentioner is working flawlessly, and if its a manual one, check it every so often.

Cheers, good luck.

heres the o ring i was talking aboutwhen you pmed me not really an o,but its easier to explain that way! :laugh:

i have used copper gaskets on small motors quite a bit ( under 1200) with out being o-ringed and it's never been an issue over that size i would definitly use o-rings also how much cylinder pressures you have can influence wether you need them or not. if the motor is a low compression street engine you should be fine with out o-rings just use a couple of good coats of copper coat on both sides of the gasket or a product i have started using alot for copper gaskets called gaskacinch it works awesome. but either one is quite acceptabile. the center o-ring groove has to be filled in with some kind of heat and oil resistant sealer fill it up flush and let it dry over night before installing the head if you are using a one piece gasket of any type. also if i where you i would get a one piece cam chain and install it instead of using one with a master link for the extra time it takes it is cheap insurance.